Katrina Rosales
During the Elizabethan era, an influx of exotic goods from around the world, including luxurious perfumery ingredients, made their way to Europe. Queen Elizabeth I was known to use perfume to mask unpleasant odours, such as sweat and the smell of rotting meat in a time before refrigeration. Venetian traders were beckoned to Southampton by the Queen to offer their scented wares, and it became fashionable to wear musk and rose-scented pomanders and sachets. The Queen's dresses and wigs were also scented with lavender, roses, and thyme to mask the smell of damp.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To mask awful odours |
| Popular Scents | Musk, rose, tuberose, jasmine, carnation, ambergris, vanilla |
| Scent Sources | Venetian traders in Southampton, exotic goods from explorers |
| Recipes | Found in household books alongside food and medicine recipes |
| Perfumed Items | Gloves, pomanders, sachets |
| Symbolism | Rose, lily, virginity, purity, love |
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What You'll Learn
- Perfumes were often made at home, with recipes found in household books
- Exotic goods, including perfumery ingredients, arrived in Elizabethan England from overseas exploration
- Perfumed gloves were a fashion imported from France via Italy
- Musk and rose-scented pomanders and sachets were fashionable
- The white lily, daisies, and jessamine were used to symbolise Elizabeth's virginity
Perfumes were often made at home, with recipes found in household books
During the Elizabethan era, perfumes were often made at home, with recipes found in household books. The era witnessed an influx of exotic goods from around the world, including luxurious perfumery ingredients such as vanilla, pepper, Peru balsam, cardamom, sandalwood, clove, and cocoa. These ingredients were used not only for flavouring but also for creating fragrances.
Elizabethan perfumes were used to mask unpleasant odours, making heavy scents like tuberose, jasmine, and musk particularly popular. Venetian traders were invited to Southampton by Queen Elizabeth I to offer their scented wares, and it became fashionable to wear musk and rose-scented pomanders and sachets. Perfumed gloves, a trend that originated in France, also became popular in England after the Earl of Oxford brought a pair from Venice in 1566.
Elizabethan recipes for perfumes were often found in household books alongside food and medicine recipes. One such recipe, "Queen's Delight", included ingredients like rose, musk, and ambergris. The symbolic meaning of herbs was also important, with the queen studying the significance of various plants and creatures depicted in her portraits. For example, the rose symbolised the dynasty she embodied and that of the Virgin Mary, while the white lily and daisies exalted her virginity.
The use of rosewater for fragrance was also common during this time. Ancient recipes for lotions and soaps have been recovered, along with methods for steaming oneself in rosewater vapour fragrant with perfumes and aromatic herbs.
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Exotic goods, including perfumery ingredients, arrived in Elizabethan England from overseas exploration
The Elizabethan era witnessed an influx of exotic goods from overseas exploration and trade with the East. Explorers like Vasco de Gama, Magellan, and Columbus brought back valuable commodities such as vanilla, pepper, Peru balsam, cardamom, sandalwood, clove, and cocoa. These exotic goods, including perfumery ingredients, made their way into fragrant creations, alongside their use in flavouring and cooking.
The expansion of overseas trade routes opened up new markets and sources of raw materials for England. English merchants traded with the Americas, Africa, and Asia, bringing back precious metals, spices, and tobacco. This influx of exotic goods satisfied domestic demand and allowed England to re-export these items to other European countries, profiting from the trade.
The wool and cloth industries were also significant during this period, with English wool highly sought after in Europe. The export of woollen cloth to the Netherlands and other parts of Europe brought substantial revenue, enriching merchants and providing employment for thousands involved in production and transportation.
The Spanish and East Indian Companies, created by Queen Elizabeth I, competed in international trade. The Queen granted monopolies on trade with Spanish and Asian colonies, hurting Spain's trade and bringing wealth to England. Explorers like Sir Walter Raleigh, John Hawkins, and Sir Francis Drake, who were personally supported by the Queen, increased England's prestige and power through their trips around the world.
The age of discovery, as it was known, saw the establishment of colonies in the New World, such as Roanoke Island, Virginia, named in honour of the Queen. This period of exploration and trade fostered wealth, employment, and social change, positioning England as a burgeoning global power.
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Perfumed gloves were a fashion imported from France via Italy
Perfumed gloves were a popular fashion accessory in Tudor England, and Queen Elizabeth I was particularly fond of them. The trend was imported from France via Italy, and it is said that the Earl of Oxford brought perfumed gloves to England in 1566, which he offered to the Queen. Elizabeth was so pleased with the scent that it became known as the "Earl of Oxford's perfume". The fashion of perfumed gloves was not unique to England, as Isabella D'Este, who made her own scents, gave gloves to Claude of France in the early 16th century.
Elizabeth was known to receive perfumed gloves as gifts, such as from Lady Walsingham in 1589 and the court musicians of the Lupo and Bassano families in 1599/1600. She also offered gloves to her lovers and appointed her friend, Dr John Dee, as the "Keeper of the Gloves". The Queen was so famous for her gloves that Venetian perfumers were brought to England to work on her perfumes. Elizabeth's gloves were scented with various fragrances, including musk, rose, jasmine, ambergris, cedarwood, storax, civet, clove, cinnamon, Damascus rose, and white lily.
The popularity of perfumed gloves in Tudor England can be attributed to the arrival of exotic goods and luxurious perfumery ingredients from around the world. Explorers like Vasco de Gama, Magellan, and Columbus brought spices and scented materials to Europe, such as vanilla, pepper, cardamom, sandalwood, and clove. These ingredients were used in perfumery, flavouring, and fragrant creations. The growing trade with the East also resulted in the transportation of living plants, such as orange trees, jasmine, and rose.
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Musk and rose-scented pomanders and sachets were fashionable
The growing trade with the East also resulted in the transportation of living plants, such as orange trees, jasmine, and rose. Queen Elizabeth I invited Venetian traders to Southampton to offer their scented wares, and it became fashionable to wear musk and rose-scented pomanders and sachets. Perfumes were often made at home, and recipes for them were found in household books alongside food and medicine recipes.
Elizabethan England also saw the use of lotions and soaps, and methods to steam oneself in rosewater vapour fragrant with perfumes and aromatic herbs. The use of scented gloves also became popular, with the Earl of Oxford bringing a pair of perfumed gloves from Venice for Queen Elizabeth I in 1566. The Virgin Queen was known for her vanity and love of earthly pleasures, and she brought vanilla to the European continent, ordering that it be put in all her dishes.
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The white lily, daisies, and jessamine were used to symbolise Elizabeth's virginity
The white lily, daisies, and jessamine were used in Queen Elizabeth's perfume to symbolise her virginity. White lilies have long been associated with purity, spirituality, and rebirth. Ancient cultures often linked the white water lily to the spiritual world and the gods. Similarly, daisies, especially white ones, are symbolic of purity and innocence. In the Victorian era, they also stood for the ability to keep a secret. Carolina Jessamine, with its vibrant golden-yellow flowers, is a symbol of resilience, hope, and the warmth of Southern hospitality. The sweet scent of its flowers is said to uplift the spirits. Together, these flowers in Queen Elizabeth's perfume would have conveyed a sense of purity and innocence, reinforcing her image as the Virgin Queen.
White lilies are known for their elegant appearance and fragrant aroma. They hold symbolic meanings across different cultures and are often associated with significant life events. In the language of flowers, or floriography, they represent commitment, faith, and rebirth. White lilies are commonly used in weddings and religious ceremonies, as well as in somber occasions like funerals, where they convey respect and sympathy. Their versatility allows them to inspire and touch hearts worldwide.
Daisies, with their bright and cheerful nature, carry similar connotations of purity and innocence. They are the birth flower of April and the traditional flower for a 5th wedding anniversary. In the Victorian era, daisies were also associated with loyalty and secrecy. The common English daisy, with its white petals and golden yellow centre, is a familiar sight in gardens. However, daisies encompass a diverse range of flowers, each with its unique symbolic meaning. For example, a yellow daisy represents friendship and well wishes, while a pink daisy symbolises platonic love and gentleness.
Carolina Jessamine, also known as the golden-yellow jessamine, is native to the Southern regions, particularly South Carolina, where it serves as the state flower. Its dense foliage and evergreen vines drape gracefully over trellises and fences, adding a vibrant touch to landscapes throughout the year. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, Carolina Jessamine is valued for its resilience and ability to thrive in challenging conditions. It symbolises endurance, reminding us of our capacity to overcome life's hardships. Its sweet fragrance is often associated with welcoming environments and the warmth of Southern hospitality.
By incorporating these symbolic flowers into her perfume, Queen Elizabeth I may have intended to convey a message of purity, innocence, and virginity. The white lily and daisy, with their longstanding associations with chastity and secrecy, reinforce the image of the Virgin Queen. Meanwhile, the resilient and hospitable nature of Carolina Jessamine adds a layer of complexity to the fragrance, suggesting endurance and a welcoming spirit.
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Frequently asked questions
It is believed that Queen Elizabeth I wore a perfume called "Queen's Delight".
The perfume likely contained musk, rose, white lily, daisies, and "jessamine". These scents were chosen to symbolise the virginity of the "Virgin Queen".
Tuberose, jasmine, and musk were popular scents during Queen Elizabeth I's reign, as they were good at masking odours.
It became fashionable to wear musk and rose-scented pomanders and sachets. People also steamed themselves in rosewater vapour fragrant with perfumes and aromatic herbs.
Explorers such as Vasco de Gama, Magellan, and Columbus brought exotic goods from around the world, including vanilla, pepper, Peru balsam, cardamom, sandalwood, clove, and cocoa.
