Lance Carson
The sense of smell is a complex process that involves the interaction of perfume compounds with our unique body chemistry. When we smell a perfume, we are detecting volatile molecules that have evaporated and reached our olfactory receptors. The top notes of a fragrance are the first scents we perceive, followed by the middle or heart notes, and finally, the base notes. The way perfume smells can vary depending on factors such as skin type, pH levels, body temperature, and even diet. Additionally, the environment, including humidity, temperature, and wind, can influence how a perfume's scent evolves over time. The art of smelling perfume involves using scent blotters or applying it to the skin without vigorous rubbing to avoid affecting the evaporation of the top notes.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| How to smell perfume | Use a scent blotter (white cardboard strips) instead of smelling the atomizer or lid. Spray the perfume 2-3 times towards the blotter, let it absorb, then lift to your nose. |
| How perfume works | Perfumes smell due to evaporation. The top notes (or head/opening notes) evaporate first, followed by the middle (or heart) notes, and finally the base notes. |
| Perfume types | Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Cologne, Eau Fraiche |
| Perfume composition | Perfumes are diluted with alcohol to distinguish different scents. They are often engineered with a three-part smell, including top, heart, and base notes. |
| Perfume notes | Common notes include citrus, fruity, floral, nutty, earthy, spicy, sweet, and musky. |
| Factors influencing scent | Skin type, pH levels, body temperature, diet, mode of application, and environment can all affect how a perfume smells. |
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What You'll Learn
Perfume smells due to evaporation
Perfumes are a blend of art and science, offering unique scents that can evoke emotions, memories, and moods. The sense of smell is closely linked to the brain's limbic system, which governs emotions and memory.
Perfumes are composed of volatile compounds that evaporate at different rates. When you spray a perfume, the top notes, or head notes, are the first scents you perceive. These are the lightest and most volatile components, and they evaporate quickly. The middle or heart notes appear once the top notes have disappeared, and they are considered the main body of the fragrance, lasting longer. The base notes are what is left at the end, and they are the longest-lasting, mixing with the middle notes to create the full body of the perfume.
The rate of evaporation of the perfume compounds is influenced by temperature. Higher temperatures accelerate the evaporation of the top notes, which can make the fragrance appear stronger initially but cause it to fade faster. Conversely, cooler temperatures slow down the evaporation process, resulting in a longer-lasting but more subdued scent. In cold weather, the heart and base notes become more prominent.
Additionally, the skin type and pH levels can impact how a perfume smells. Oily skin tends to hold scents longer because the oils trap the fragrance molecules, allowing them to evaporate more slowly. Dry skin, on the other hand, can cause fragrances to dissipate faster as there is less oil to retain the scent. The natural acidity or alkalinity of the skin can also alter the way a perfume smells, with slight changes in pH levels due to diet or hormonal changes affecting the scent.
Other factors that can affect the evaporation of perfume include minimizing oxygen exposure, keeping the bottle's cap tightly closed when not in use, and avoiding shaking the bottle excessively.
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Skin type and body chemistry affect how perfume smells
The unique chemistry of our bodies means that perfumes can smell different from one person to another. This phenomenon is known as "fragrance individuality" or "scent variation". When fragrance molecules meet our skin, they interact with our skin's natural chemistry, creating an individual aroma for each wearer.
Skin type is a categorisation of the distinct qualities and needs of our skin. The five skin types are oily, dry, combination, sensitive, and normal. Skin with natural oils or radiance tends to retain fragrance for longer as the oils capture and slowly release scent molecules. Conversely, drier skin may require more frequent applications of perfume as it lacks the natural elements that help retain fragrance.
Skin pH, which describes how acidic our skin is, can also have a significant effect on how a perfume smells. The standard skin pH level is 4.7 to 5.75, and slight changes in pH levels can alter perfumes in various ways. For example, perfumes with musky base notes may be intensified by a higher pH level, whereas perfumes with citrusy top notes may fade faster on more acidic skin.
Other factors that can influence how a perfume smells on an individual include body temperature, sweat production, hormone levels, hydration levels, and diet.
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Perfume is diluted to distinguish different scents
Perfumes are complex mixtures of fragrant essential oils and aroma compounds that are diluted in a solvent, typically alcohol or water. The dilution of perfume serves multiple purposes, including enhancing the user experience, improving workability, and complying with shipping regulations.
Diluting raw perfume materials and essential oils is often necessary to facilitate blending and experimentation. Many perfume ingredients, such as absolutes and resins, are sticky, solid, or challenging to measure accurately in small quantities. Diluting these substances increases their workability, making it easier to blend them into a homogeneous fragrance. Additionally, during the experimental phase of creating a new perfume, dilution allows perfumers to incorporate tiny amounts of expensive, potent materials without having to prepare large batches.
Alcohol is the most common solvent used in perfumery, and different types of alcohols are available for this purpose. Perfumers typically use ethanol, specifically grain alcohol or cosmetics-grade Trade-Specific Denatured Alcohol (TSDA), such as SD-40b. These alcohols are chosen because they are safe for human application and do not interfere with the fragrance. On the other hand, isopropyl alcohol and methanol are unsuitable due to their strong smell, skin irritation potential, and solubility issues.
Water is also added to perfumes, not solely for cost reduction but also to enhance the user experience. The presence of water in alcohol-based perfumes reduces the harsh, drying effect of alcohol on the skin. Additionally, water retards the evaporation of alcohol, prolonging the persistence of the top notes, which are crucial in forming a customer's first impression of a fragrance. However, adding too much water can cloud the fragrance, and distilled or deionized water is recommended to avoid contamination.
To comply with shipping regulations, perfumers may need to dilute their products further. For example, to ship perfumes by air, it may be necessary to lower the alcohol concentration by adding perfumer's alcohol or distilled water. This practice helps small businesses and independent perfumers distribute their products without violating dangerous goods restrictions imposed by postal services and couriers.
In summary, diluting perfume serves multiple purposes, from enhancing the user experience and facilitating the creative process to ensuring compliance with shipping regulations. The choice of diluent and dilution ratio depends on various factors, including the desired fragrance persistence, skin feel, workability, and shipping considerations.
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Floral scents add a romantic touch
Floral perfumes are known for their romantic, feminine, and fresh scents. They capture the essence of blooming flowers, creating an aura of elegance and softness. The scent of flowers has a profound impact on our emotional well-being. Clinical studies have shown that exposure to certain floral scents can reduce tension, decrease anger, lower depression, enhance self-esteem, and increase energy levels.
The power of floral fragrances is rooted in our neural architecture. When floral molecules reach our nose, they travel a direct route to the limbic system, the brain's emotional centre. This allows floral scents to have a more immediate impact on our emotions than visual or auditory stimuli. Floral perfumes can evoke various emotions, from joy and playfulness to passion and romance.
The most popular floral notes include rose, jasmine, lavender, chamomile, orange blossom, gardenia, lily, iris, and orchids. These scents can be worn in different ways to suit the occasion and the desired effect. Light and airy floral perfumes are perfect for daytime or spring events, while warmer and richer florals are better suited for evenings or cooler months.
When applying floral perfumes, it is recommended to spritz them on moisturized skin or lightly apply them to the hair for a longer-lasting scent. Floral perfumes can also be layered with matching scented body products and clothing for a more intense and enduring fragrance experience.
Floral scents have a long history of being used to convey emotions and messages. In ancient Egypt, the lotus was considered a spiritual flower, while in Victorian England, a bouquet of flowers could communicate sensuality, attachment, or devotion, depending on the types of flowers chosen.
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Base notes are what you remember most
When you first spray a perfume, the top notes are the first scents you detect. These are the scents that give off an initial impression and shape the fragrance's story. They are usually lighter and smaller molecules, such as citrus or floral scents, and they evaporate quickly.
After the top notes fade, the heart or middle notes emerge. These are the "heart" of the fragrance, making up around 40-80% of the final scent. Heart notes are usually well-rounded and consist of a wide variety of ingredients, including florals, spices, and fruits. They act as a buffer for the base notes, which may not smell as pleasant on their own.
The base notes are what is left at the end of the fragrance, and they are the scent that you remember the most. They are the densest and most intense part of the olfactory pyramid, also known as the "soul notes". They are rich, heavy, and long-lasting, sinking into your skin and lingering for six hours or more. Popular base notes include vanilla, amber, musk, patchouli, moss, and woody notes like sandalwood and cedarwood. These notes give the perfume its character and depth, and they are the ones that determine whether the perfume truly pleases the wearer.
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Frequently asked questions
Perfumes are diluted with alcohol, which spreads out the smells so that you can distinguish them. When you apply perfume, the alcohol evaporates, leaving the scent molecules on your skin.
The duration of a perfume depends on its concentration. Eau de Parfum, for example, contains 10-20% perfume oil and lasts around 8 hours. Eau de Toilette contains 5-15% perfume oil and lasts 4-7 hours. Eau de Cologne is lighter, with only 2-4% perfume oil, and lasts 2-3 hours.
Skin type, pH levels, body temperature, and diet can all affect how a perfume smells on an individual. Oily skin, for example, can make fragrances more intense, while sweet notes can be overwhelming on oily skin.
When applying perfume, it is best not to rub it in vigorously, as this can cause the top notes to evaporate faster and weaken the overall smell. Instead, spread the perfume gently on the skin.
When smelling a new perfume, use a scent blotter rather than smelling the atomizer or lid. Spray the perfume two or three times towards the blotter and allow it to absorb before lifting it to your nose.
