Lance Carson
Opium, a women's perfume by Yves Saint Laurent, has undergone reformulation since its launch in 1977. The scent, with its controversial name and references to the Orient, was an instant success, becoming a best-selling product. However, over the years, some have noticed changes in the fragrance, with some batches smelling watered down or different from older versions. The reformulation of Opium, now known as Black Opium, has received mixed reviews, with some appreciating it as a distinct perfume, while others seek out older versions.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Name of the perfume | Opium |
| Year of launch | 1977 |
| Perfumers | Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac |
| Fragrance | Oriental-spicy |
| Top notes | Fruits and spices, mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, pepper, bay leaf |
| Floral middle notes | Jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, carnation, cinnamon, peach, orris root |
| Base notes | Sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, benzoin resin, castoreum, amber, musk, patchouli, tolu balsam, vetiver |
| Changes in formulation | Yes |
| Recent reviews | Positive |
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What You'll Learn
The controversy surrounding the name and advertising campaigns
The name “Opium” and its association with a drug from the Orient caused a scandal, especially in the United States. A group of Chinese Americans demanded a name change and a public apology from designer Yves Saint Laurent, accusing him of being insensitive to Chinese history and the struggles of Chinese Americans with opium. The press coverage, however, only increased sales, and the perfume soon became a best-seller.
The launch party in 1978 also caused controversy. The German ship Peking, named after Beijing, was rented and adorned with colourful banners, with American novelist Truman Capote at its helm. The ship, along with a 1000-pound bronze statue of the Buddha decorated with orchids, displayed the supposed Eastern theme of the perfume.
The advertising campaigns for Opium have also been controversial. A 1992 television commercial directed by David Lynch featured a woman caressing her neck and seemingly experiencing intense pleasure from using the perfume as if it were a drug. In 1999, a campaign by Tom Ford featured a woman whose body "seized upwards while lying on the floor", which was banned by the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) for being irresponsible and offensive.
Another campaign in 2000 featured English model Sophie Dahl naked except for jewellery and stilettos, with her legs spread apart. Photographed by Steven Meisel, the campaign was deemed “sexually suggestive, degrading to women, and likely to cause serious or widespread offence" and was banned by the ASA. It was also criticised by American journalist Susan Faludi, who argued that it pushed the "idealization of weak yielding women" to the extreme.
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Changes in scent over time
The scent of perfumes can change over time, and this can be due to a variety of factors. Firstly, perfumes can undergo reformulation, resulting in a different scent. This was the case with Yves Saint Laurent's Opium perfume, which was reformulated in 2009. While some people were disappointed with the new formulation, others learned to appreciate it as a unique fragrance. It is worth noting that personal preferences and tastes can also change over time, and a scent that one might have disliked in the past could become enjoyable later on.
Additionally, perfumes can macerate and become more potent and powerful as they age. This maturation process can lead to subtle changes in the scent profile. In the case of Black Opium, some users have reported that their older bottles smell slightly different, indicating that the perfume has likely matured and evolved over time.
Another factor that can contribute to changes in scent over time is dilution. Some perfumes may become diluted, either intentionally by the manufacturer or due to storage and exposure to certain conditions. Dilution can result in a weaker and less intense fragrance, altering the overall scent profile.
It is worth noting that the perception of scent is highly subjective and can vary across individuals. Factors such as age, gender, cultural background, and personal experiences can influence how a person perceives a particular scent. Moreover, individual body chemistry can also affect how a perfume smells on the skin, as certain chemical compounds in the perfume may react with the skin's natural oils and pH levels.
Lastly, the environment in which a perfume is stored can impact its scent over time. Factors such as temperature, humidity, and exposure to light can cause the delicate fragrance compounds to break down or undergo chemical changes, resulting in a different scent. Therefore, it is generally recommended to store perfumes in cool, dry, and dark places to maintain their optimal scent.
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Comparisons between the original and new versions
Opium, the Oriental-spicy women's perfume created for Yves Saint Laurent, was introduced in 1977 and quickly generated publicity with its controversial name. The fragrance was an astonishing success, with sales in Europe reaching $30,000,000 in one year. Opium remains one of the top ten best-selling perfumes in France, along with Chanel No. 5.
The original version of Opium caused a stir with its name, which was seen as condoning drug use. In the United States, a group of Chinese Americans demanded a change of the name, citing insensitivity to Chinese history and culture. The ensuing press coverage, however, increased sales.
The original Opium was described as having a mix of fruity and spicy top notes, including mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, pepper, and bay leaf. Its floral middle notes consisted of jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, carnation, cinnamon, peach, and orris root. The base notes were woody and sweet, with sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, benzoin resin, castoreum, amber, musk, patchouli, tolu balsam, and vetiver.
Over time, Opium has undergone reformulations, and the newer versions have received mixed reviews. Some people have expressed disappointment with the new formulations, while others have learned to appreciate the new versions as distinct perfumes in their own right.
One notable change in the newer versions of Opium is the perception of dilution. Some reviewers have noted that the newer versions seem watered down and lack the depth and longevity of the original. The scent is described as becoming lighter and more floral, with the white florals being more prominent.
In conclusion, while the original Opium caused controversy with its name, its scent was widely popular. The newer versions of Opium have undergone reformulations, resulting in mixed reviews. Some appreciate the new versions as unique perfumes, while others find them disappointing compared to the original, iconic scent.
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The influence of the Orient on the perfume's design
The influence of the Orient on the design of the Opium perfume is evident in its name, scent, packaging, and advertising campaigns.
The name "Opium" itself references a drug from the Orient, specifically China, and was chosen by Saint Laurent to evoke a sense of exoticism and sophistication associated with imperial China. The scent of the perfume is an Oriental-spicy blend of fruits, spices, and woody notes, with top notes including mandarin orange and clove, and base notes such as sandalwood and amber. The packaging design, created by Pierre Dinand, was inspired by Japanese inro—small lacquered cases traditionally used to hold perfumes, herbs, and medicines. This Oriental theme was also reflected in the promotional events for the perfume, such as the US launch party in 1978, which featured a German ship named Peking, decorated with colourful banners, and a large statue of the Buddha.
The advertising campaigns for Opium have also drawn influence from the Orient, often featuring suggestive imagery and themes that played into the exoticism and fetishism of the East. The most notable example is the campaign featuring English model Sophie Dahl, which became one of the most complained-about ads in history due to its sexually suggestive nature. The ad was banned in several countries and sparked accusations of degrading women and idealizing weak femininity.
While the Orient-inspired design elements of Opium have been a source of controversy, they have also contributed to the perfume's success and longevity. Opium remains one of the top-selling perfumes in France, even decades after its release, and its unique blend of scents and controversial name have helped it stand out in the competitive fragrance market.
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Opium's impact on the fragrance industry
Opium, an Oriental-spicy women's perfume, was created for the French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent by perfumers Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac. Introduced to the market in 1977, Opium quickly generated publicity due to its controversial name, which evoked a drug from the Orient. The name caused outrage among Chinese Americans, who demanded a change and a public apology from Saint Laurent for his alleged insensitivity to Chinese history and their concerns. Despite the backlash, the press coverage helped increase sales, and Opium soon became a best-selling product. The perfume's launch party in 1978 further emphasised its supposed Eastern theme, featuring a German ship named Peking, decorated with colourful banners and a large Buddha statue.
The success of Opium continued, and thirty years later, it remained one of the top ten best-selling perfumes in France, a remarkable feat for a fragrance. Opium's unique scent, with top notes of fruits and spices, floral middle notes, and a sweet woody base, captivated consumers and left a lasting impact on the fragrance industry. Its longevity and influence are evident, with many people sharing their memories and experiences of wearing the perfume over the years.
However, Opium also faced challenges. An advertising campaign in 2000 featuring model Sophie Dahl received mixed reactions, with some finding it too sexually suggestive and degrading to women. This controversy led to a withdrawal of the posters in the UK. Additionally, the original formula of Opium contained potentially harmful ingredients such as eugenol, linalool, and limonene. As a result, the perfume had to be reformulated to comply with new regulations, leading to concerns from some long-time wearers that it had changed.
Despite these challenges, Opium's influence on the fragrance industry is undeniable. Its ability to captivate consumers and leave a lasting impression has set a standard for perfumery. The impact of its name and the themes it evoked, whether positive or negative, also highlighted the power of branding and marketing in the industry. Opium's success and longevity have left an indelible mark, and it remains an iconic fragrance decades after its launch.
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Frequently asked questions
Yes, Opium by Yves Saint Laurent has undergone a reformulation since its release in 1977.
The new version of Opium is described as lighter and less intense than the original. Some people prefer the new formula, while others prefer the original.
It is not clear why Opium changed its formula, but it is possible that the perfumers wanted to update the scent to appeal to modern tastes or to use new ingredients that were not previously available.
Opium was reformulated in 2009.
Black Opium has not changed its formula, but some people believe that it smells different now than it did when it was first released. This could be due to the perfume macerating over time and becoming more potent, or it could be due to changes in the production process that are not widely known.
