The Truth About Whale Vomit In Cologne

Ambergris, commonly known as 'whale vomit', is a rare substance that is sometimes found in the digestive system of a sperm whale. It is used in perfumery to make fragrances last longer and is often referred to as 'floating gold'. While it is not harvested from whales, it is frequently found on beaches around the world, most commercially in the Bahamas. Due to its scarcity and high price, it has mostly been replaced by synthetic alternatives.

What is ambergris?

Ambergris is a rare, waxy substance that sometimes forms in the digestive system of a sperm whale. It is highly sought after by perfumers for its ability to make fragrances last longer and its pleasant, musky odour.

Also known as "whale vomit", ambergris is an intestinal slurry that forms around the indigestible beaks and pens of squids—a favourite food of sperm whales. While the whales usually vomit these hard parts out, in rare cases, they pass into the intestines, where they bind together with faecal matter and other secretions to form a solid mass of ambergris.

Over time, the mass is released from the whale, either by being regurgitated or passed out as faecal matter. It then floats in the ocean, sometimes for decades, and is gradually hardened and lightened by the saltwater and sun, turning from black to grey or even yellowish. As it ages, its odour becomes more pleasant, developing a complex bouquet of 20-30 chemical compounds, including notes of old wood, earth, compost, dung, tobacco, grass, and hay.

Due to its desirable qualities and rarity, ambergris can sell for thousands or even millions of dollars, with a per-gram price exceeding that of silver. However, its collection and trade are controversial. While no whales are harmed in the collection of ambergris, the hunting of sperm whales for this substance, as well as other products like oil, has led to a decline in their population. As a result, the trade of ambergris is banned in some countries, such as the United States, to protect this internationally threatened species.

Why is it so valuable?

Ambergris, commonly known as "whale vomit", is a rare substance produced by only a small percentage of sperm whales. It is formed in the whale's digestive system when the indigestible beaks and pens of squids, the whale's primary food source, bind together with a fatty secretion. Over time, this mass becomes a solid lump of ambergris, which is excreted by the whale.

The value of ambergris lies in its use in the perfume industry. Firstly, it contains a unique chemical called ambrein, which acts as a fixative, making other smells in perfumes last longer. Secondly, its intriguing scent, described as a "bouquet of 20-30 chemical compounds", is highly prized by perfumers. The base notes of ambergris are typically heavy and musky, providing an appealing foundation for fragrances.

The rarity of ambergris further contributes to its high value. It is produced by only about 1% of the world's sperm whales and has only been found in 5% of sperm whale carcasses. As a result, ambergris can be extremely lucrative, with chunks selling for thousands or even millions of dollars. For example, in 2021, Yemeni fishermen sold a 280-pound chunk of ambergris for $1.5 million.

Today, most perfumes use synthetic alternatives to ambergris, such as Ambroxide, due to the substance's scarcity and the ethical concerns surrounding the exploitation of whales. However, some perfumers still argue that nothing can compare to the unique qualities of pure ambergris, making it a highly coveted ingredient in the perfume industry.

Is it ethical to use it?

Ambergris, commonly known as "whale vomit", is a rare substance produced by sperm whales. It is highly valued by perfumers for its ability to make fragrances last longer and its pleasant, musky smell. However, its origin from the sperm whale's digestive system has led to ethical concerns about its use.

One key ethical consideration is the impact on sperm whale populations. Sperm whales are an internationally threatened species, and whaling has already decimated their numbers. While ambergris can be collected without harming whales, as it is naturally excreted, there is a risk that the trade could encourage whaling or the exploitation of whales for other products. Some countries, such as the US, have banned the trade of ambergris to protect sperm whales. However, in other regions, such as the European Union, it is still legal to buy and sell.

Another ethical concern is the potential for cruelty to whales. While some believe that ambergris is regurgitated by whales, others argue that it is a fecal matter that passes through the rectum. In rare cases, it is possible that the mass of ambergris becomes too large and fatally ruptures the whale's rectum. This uncertainty about the exact method of excretion makes it difficult to determine whether the collection of ambergris is ethical.

Additionally, there are cultural and religious sensitivities to consider. For example, early Arab civilizations used ambergris as incense, an aphrodisiac, and medicine. Banning or restricting the use of ambergris could impact these traditional practices.

Furthermore, the high value of ambergris and the unpredictable supply have given rise to a secretive and competitive market. "Ambergris hunters" track weather patterns and ocean currents to locate the substance, and they can be aggressive in guarding their secrets and territory. This has led to concerns about the safety and well-being of those involved in the trade, as well as the potential for illegal activity.

Finally, there is the "ick factor" to consider. Some consumers may find the idea of using a substance derived from whale waste unpleasant or disgusting, regardless of its benefits to perfume. On the other hand, others may be fascinated by the unique origins of ambergris and view it as a luxurious and exotic ingredient.

In conclusion, the ethics of using ambergris in cologne is a complex issue that involves the potential impact on sperm whale populations, animal cruelty, cultural sensitivities, market dynamics, and consumer preferences. While synthetic alternatives are available and increasingly used, the demand for natural ambergris persists, and the ethical implications of its collection and trade remain a subject of debate.

How is it collected?

Ambergris, commonly referred to as "whale vomit", is a rare substance produced by only a small percentage of sperm whales. It is formed in the whale's intestines when indigestible parts of its prey, such as squid beaks, move into the intestines and bind together, creating a solid mass. Over time, this mass becomes ambergris, which can take years to develop.

There are differing opinions on how ambergris is ejected from the whale. Some believe that the whale vomits out the mass, giving it its nickname, while others, like Richard Sabin, Principal Curator of Mammals at the Natural History Museum, argue that it is passed along with faecal matter and excreted from the rectum.

Once ejected from the whale, ambergris floats in the ocean and can be carried by ocean currents. Eventually, it may wash up on shores, where it is sometimes found by beachgoers or harvesters. However, finding ambergris is extremely rare, and it is challenging to determine whether a substance is genuine ambergris.

The collection of ambergris is legal in some countries, such as the UK and certain European nations, where it is considered a waste product that can be collected from beaches or the sea.

What does it smell like?

Ambergris, commonly known as "whale vomit", is a waxy substance found in the digestive system of sperm whales. It is highly sought after by perfumers for its ability to make fragrances last longer and its pleasant, musky odour.

When fresh, ambergris has a strong faecal smell and is black in colour. However, as it matures in the ocean, it dries out and its scent becomes more pleasant and musky. This process can take years, with some pieces of ambergris spending decades floating in the ocean. The longer it is exposed to seawater and the sun, the higher the quality of the ambergris.

Once it has matured, ambergris is said to have a complex and alluring fragrance. Christopher Kemp, the author of "Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris", describes its scent as a "mixture of dung and the ocean, old wood, tobacco, moist earth, and ozone". The New York Times, in 1895, wrote that it smelled "like the blending of new-mown hay, the damp woodsy fragrance of a fern-copse, and the faintest possible perfume of the violet".

Herman Melville, in his novel "Moby Dick", also captured the curious smell of ambergris, writing of the "terrible odour" of a dead whale, from which "stole a faint stream of perfume".

The unique scent of ambergris is made up of 20-30 chemical compounds, each with its own distinct odour. These individual scents combine to create a long-lasting base note that forms the foundation of a perfume.

While synthetic alternatives to ambergris exist, some argue that nothing can compare to the raw material. Mandy Aftel, a perfumer and author, says that "its aroma affects everything else and that's why people have pursued it for hundreds of years".

Frequently asked questions