Acceleration Stopped: Fragrance Oil Before Lye

Adding fragrance oils to cold process soap can cause the soap batter to thicken more quickly than usual, which is known as acceleration. This can be a problem for soapmakers who are trying to create intricate designs that require a lot of time to work with. While some fragrance oils are known to cause acceleration, others do not, and it is important to only use fragrance oils that have been tested in cold process soap. There are several ways to reduce the acceleration caused by fragrance oils, including using more water in the lye solution, keeping other accelerating ingredients to a minimum, stirring in fragrance oils by hand instead of using an immersion blender, and soaping at room temperature. Additionally, having a backup plan and being prepared to work quickly can help manage unexpected acceleration.

Using more water in the lye solution

When creating a custom soap recipe, it is important to consider the balance between the water and lye concentrations. While increasing the water amount can slow down the acceleration, too much water can cause the soap to take longer to harden. This is because the water needs to evaporate for the soap to harden, and using a higher water concentration will result in a longer evaporation time. Therefore, it is recommended to start with a small increase in water concentration, such as a 10% discount, and adjust as needed based on the specific recipe and design.

Additionally, it is crucial to carefully handle the lye and water mixture due to the highly exothermic reaction that occurs when they are combined. This reaction releases a significant amount of heat, which can cause the solution to boil and splatter. To prevent accidents, always add lye to water slowly and be sure to follow safety precautions such as wearing protective gear and ensuring proper ventilation.

By understanding the role of water in the lye solution and its impact on acceleration, soap makers can make informed decisions about their recipes and create beautiful, custom soaps with their desired fragrances.

Keeping other accelerating ingredients to a minimum

Hard oils such as coconut oil and palm oil, and butters such as shea butter and cocoa butter, will make your soap bars harder and longer-lasting. However, they will also cause your soap to trace faster. To slow down an accelerating fragrance oil, use more soft oils such as olive oil, jojoba oil, rice bran oil, or sweet almond oil in your recipe. Your soap bars will be softer, but you will have more time to work with your design.

Be careful when using honey, milk, or other liquids as a water replacement in your lye solution, as they can speed up trace. Some clays can also cause acceleration, so it is best to turn them into a paste or liquid with water or oil before adding them to your soap batter.

Making soap at room temperature

Step 1: Prepare your materials and workspace

Before you begin, it's important to have all the necessary materials ready and your workspace set up. Gather your ingredients, including your choice of oils, lye, and any additives such as scent, colour, or botanical matter. Prepare your soap mould and set aside any additives you plan to use.

Step 2: Weigh and measure your ingredients

Weigh and place all your hard oils, such as butters, coconut oil, palm oil, tallow, or lard, into your soaping container. Hard oils tend to be solid at room temperature. Weigh out the liquid oils separately and set them aside.

Step 3: Prepare your lye solution

Prepare your lye solution by first weighing out the water and then the sodium hydroxide. Slowly add the sodium hydroxide to the water, stirring gently until the crystals dissolve. Continue stirring until the lye solution becomes clear.

Step 4: Combine lye solution and hard oils

Once your lye solution is clear, slowly pour it over the hard oils in your soap pot. The lye solution will be very hot, and this heat will help melt your hard oils. Use a whisk to gently mash the hard oils into the lye solution, stirring continuously until the hard oils have completely melted. This may take some time, so be patient and keep stirring gently.

Step 5: Add liquid oils

After your hard oils have melted, add the liquid oils to your soap pot and whisk to combine.

Step 6: Mix with a stick blender

Using a stick blender, mix your soap batter in short bursts, alternating with hand-stirring, until the soap reaches a thin trace consistency. This means that when you lift the blender out of the batter, it will leave a thin trail that stays on the surface for a moment before sinking back in.

Step 7: Add your additives

Now is the time to add your chosen scent, colour, and any other additives you've prepared. Blend the batter to incorporate your additives evenly.

Step 8: Pour into mould and cure

Once your batter is ready, carefully pour it into your prepared soap mould. Cover the soap and allow it to set. Depending on your recipe and climate, this may take a few hours to a few days. Once the soap has cooled and is firm enough to handle, you can cut it into bars. Your soap will then need to cure, typically for 4 to 6 weeks, before it's ready to use.

Tips for success:

• It's important to be cautious when working with lye. Always wear protective gear, including gloves and safety goggles, and work in a well-ventilated area.
• When making soap at room temperature, it's crucial to work slowly and gently. Avoid using an immersion blender, as it can cause over-mixing and accidental thickening of the trace.
• Keep your workspace clean and organised to ensure a smooth soap-making process.
• If you're a beginner, it's a good idea to start with simple recipes and designs before experimenting with more complex techniques.

Stirring in fragrance oils manually

When it comes to adding fragrance oils to your soap, there are a few different methods you can use. One popular method is to stir them in manually with a spatula or whisk. This can be a good option if you're dealing with accelerating fragrance oils, as it helps you avoid over-mixing and accidentally ending up with a too-thick trace.

• Before adding your fragrance oil, make sure that your lye solution and oils are at room temperature. This will help slow down the tracing process and give you more time to work.
• When you're ready to add your fragrance oil, simply stir it in manually with a spatula or whisk. Do not use an immersion blender, as this will speed up the tracing process.
• Be careful not to over-mix, as this can cause your soap batter to become too thick.
• If your soap starts to accelerate, stop stick blending and switch to a whisk. If it becomes too thick to work with, try a layered design or spoon plop technique.
• Adding your fragrance oil at the very end of the process can also help slow down acceleration.
• Another option is to mix your fragrance oil with an equal amount of liquid oil from your batch and microwave it for about 20 seconds before adding it at trace.

Using non-accelerating fragrance oils

• Choose your design carefully. Some designs, such as spoon plops, textured tops, layers, and embeds, actually work better with a medium to thick trace.
• If you're set on using a specific fragrance oil for a design that needs a well-behaving fragrance, you can try tweaking your recipe by including more slow-moving oils. However, keep in mind that if the acceleration is extreme, no recipe or method can prevent it.
• Non-accelerating fragrance oils are typically lightweight and liquid at room temperature, such as olive oil, rice bran oil, sweet almond oil, and canola oil.
• When blending your fragrance oil, stir it manually with a spatula instead of using an immersion blender. This will help you avoid over-mixing and accidentally creating a too-thick trace.
• Keep other accelerating ingredients to a minimum. Hard oils (e.g., coconut oil, palm oil) and butters (e.g., shea butter, cocoa butter) will cause your soap to trace faster.
• Make your soap at room temperature. Colder temperatures prolong the time it takes for a soap batter to reach trace.
• Avoid ingredients that contain sugar, such as honey, beer, wine, milk, and purees, as they can increase the temperature and speed up trace.
• Avoid ingredients with absorption properties, such as clays, activated charcoal, and titanium dioxide, as they can also speed up trace.

Frequently asked questions