The Fragrance Of Violets: Nature's Delicate Scent

Violet flowers have a soft, subtle, delicate, and fresh fragrance with a sweet depth. They smell powdery and romantic, similar to iris. In nature, they have a strong scent, but in perfumes, they smell like violet pastilles or candies. The Parma Violet, a Mediterranean native, is considered the true violet with a deep, intoxicating fragrance. The Sweet Violet, though not the same as the Parma Violet, is often grown to produce fragrant volatile oils.

The natural fragrance of violets

Violets have a long history of being valued for their scent. Ancient Athenians drank wine scented with violets, and early Arab perfumers distilled violet-scented oil. The flowers were also worn as garlands around the head to prevent headaches and dizziness. In the 18th century, Empress Josephine, Napoleon's wife, favoured their heart-shaped leaves and distinctive fragrance, and Napoleon himself sent her a bouquet of violets every year on their anniversary.

The Parma Violet, or Viola alba, is a particularly fragrant variety native to the Mediterranean. It has long stems and double flowers with a deep, intoxicating fragrance. However, it is sensitive to cold temperatures and does not produce seeds, making it less commonly cultivated.

Another variety, the Sweet Violet or Viola odorata, is more widely grown and has a strong scent. It is promiscuous and comes in many colour forms, making it a lovely addition to gardens. However, it is not the same variety as the Parma Violet prized by growers in the 19th century.

Today, the violet's scent is often recreated in perfumes and soaps, though some find these fragrances overly powdery and disappointing compared to the fresh, delicate scent of real violets. Perfumers must use ionones sparingly, as they can desensitise the nose, leading to a reduced sense of smell.

The use of violets in perfumes

Violet flowers have a soft, tender, sweet, and powdery fragrance, similar to iris. The aroma compounds present in violets are called ionones, which play a crucial role in perfumery. The use of violets in perfumes dates back to ancient times, with early Arab perfumers distilling their perfumed oil. However, it was Empress Josephine's fondness for their heart-shaped leaves and distinctive fragrance that brought them to popularity in 18th-century France. Napoleon, too, favoured the flower, often sending his beloved Josephine bouquets of violets and even laying them on her grave.

Violets have a versatile character in perfumery, functioning as a bridge between the middle and base notes. Violet leaf absolute is widely used to lend a green note to fragrances, reminiscent of cucumber peel and cut grass. The flowers' fragrance ranges from soft and sweet to woody and floral, making them a perfect fit for various accords.

One of the most common accords is the floral accord, where powdery violet blends harmoniously with other floral notes such as rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, or iris, adding a floral and powdery sweetness to the fragrance. Violet is also commonly used in powdery accords, paired with notes of talc, iris, or musk to create elegant and soft perfumes. For gourmand accords, violet is combined with notes like vanilla, cocoa, or caramel, infusing the composition with a sweet touch. Chypre accords are also enhanced by violet, which, when paired with oakmoss and patchouli, creates sophisticated and elegant fragrances. Lastly, violet is used in woody accords, adding a subtle floral touch when combined with notes such as sandalwood or cedar.

Violets are an integral part of many famous perfumes, including Eau de parfum Origan by Coty, Eau de parfum Insolence by Guerlain, Eau de toilette La Violette de Toulouse by Berdoues, Eau de parfum Paris by Yves Saint Laurent, and Eau de parfum Trésor by Lancôme, to name a few.

The use of violets in cosmetics

Violets have been used as a natural remedy for coughs and bronchitis, and their anti-inflammatory properties have been used to treat skin conditions such as eczema and burns. The ancient Greeks were aware of the medicinal qualities of violets, and the plant was also known as the "Herb of the Trinity" by monks in the Middle Ages. The plant's use as a pain reliever was extensive from the 16th Century onwards, as it contains salicylic acid, the main ingredient in aspirin. This acid is also an active ingredient in many cosmetic and skincare products, helping to prevent acne and inhibit bacterial growth.

Violets are also used for their fragrance, which is described as soft, sweet, and powdery. The aroma compounds present in violets, known as ionones, play a central role in perfumery. Violet leaf absolute is used to lend a green note to fragrances, reminiscent of cucumber peel and cut grass. The flowers have been popular since ancient times, with early Arab perfumers distilling its perfumed oil. In the 18th century, Empress Josephine of France favoured the heart-shaped leaves and distinctive fragrance of violets, and the flower was often used in cosmetics during the 19th century.

Today, violets are still used in skincare and cosmetics, with many products containing violet extracts or fragrances. The flowers are also edible and can be added to salads or used to flavour food and drinks.

The use of violets in food and drink

Violets have been used in food and drink for centuries. In ancient Athens, people drank wine scented with violets, and in the 19th century, the French candied violets for use in cakes and other baked goods.

The Parma Violet, or Viola alba, is a Mediterranean native that is tender in most cold gardens where there is snow in winter. It has a deep, intoxicating fragrance and was once extremely fashionable. However, its popularity waned after the First World War, and diseases began to kill off many of the most treasured strains. Growers then learned to extract the necessary chemicals from the leaves of the plants, which is still done today in Grasse, France.

Today, Parma violets are mainly used in food, drink, and fashion in the south of France, where festivals abound in February in towns and villages that still grow violets. Liquor manufacturers are also rediscovering violet liquors, now producing them again for vintage cocktails such as the Aviator.

When it comes to the scent of violets, it is described as soft, delicate, fresh, sweet, green, and romantic. However, it can be challenging to capture the true fragrance of violets in perfumes and soaps, often smelling overpoweringly powdery. This is because the aroma compounds in violets, known as ionones, can desensitize the nose when used in large quantities.

The historical significance of violets

The violet has been a culturally significant flower since ancient times. In ancient Athens, it was a symbol of the city, and early Arab perfumers distilled its perfumed oil. In ancient Greece, violets were associated with love, fertility, and modesty, and were often used in wedding ceremonies. The ancient Greeks also believed the flower to be a symbol of humility due to its delicate, low-growing nature.

In Roman mythology, violets are said to have held a sacred place. Legend has it that Venus, the goddess of love, gave birth to Adonis on a bed of violets. This association with love further solidified the symbolic importance of violets in Roman culture. The ancient Romans also believed that violets possessed healing properties, using them in teas and remedies.

Violets were also significant in medieval Europe, where they were associated with religious devotion and humility. Monks cultivated violet gardens within monasteries as a reminder of these virtues. During the Victorian era, flowers became a popular means of communication through a system known as floriography or "the language of flowers". In this intricate floral code, violets represented faithfulness and devotion.

Violets have also been associated with femininity throughout history, with their delicate appearance and graceful symbolism linked to feminine beauty and power. They have been used in fashion and perfumes to convey elegance and delicacy. In the Victorian era, women often wore violet-coloured fabrics or accessories as a way to express their feminine power and grace.

Violets continue to hold cultural significance today. They are often seen as a symbol of modesty, humility, and spirituality. They have also become associated with the feminist movement and the LGBTQ+ community, representing love, empowerment, and resilience.

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