Lance Carson
Ambergris, a natural substance produced in the intestines of sperm whales, has been used in perfumery for centuries. With a woody, sweet, earthy, and musky scent, it is often referred to as the treasure of the sea or floating gold. While natural ambergris is expensive due to its rarity, synthetic versions are commonly used in modern fragrances. The use of natural animal notes in perfumery has declined due to animal protection concerns, but ambergris remains permitted as its collection does not involve harming or killing whales.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Use in perfumes | Still used in perfumes today, but less appreciated than before |
| Natural or synthetic | Both natural and synthetic ambergris are used |
| Natural source | Produced in the intestines of the sperm whale |
| Natural form | Grey, pumice-like stone |
| Synthetic form | Synthetic ambergris is called ambroxan |
| Scent | Woody, ambery, sweet, earthy, musky, marine |
| Other scent qualities | Leathery, tobacco-like, camphorated |
| Use in other products | Used to perfume gloves |
| Use in other products | Used as a base for certain soaps, including Guerlain's sapocetis |
| Use in other products | Used in toilet sprays, candles, diffuser oils, and cleaning solutions |
| Historical use | Used by Egyptians and certain African tribes, discovered by Alexander the Great around 330 B.C. |
| Historical use | At the beginning of the 20th century, almost all perfumes contained animal notes |
| Regulatory status | Not considered an animal product and not listed under CITES |
| Regulatory status | Banned natural animal notes include castoreum and civet |
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What You'll Learn
Ambergris is sourced ethically
Ambergris is a valuable raw material in perfumery, known for its exquisite scent. It is a waxy substance produced in the intestines of sperm whales to protect their digestive tracts from sharp objects, such as squid beaks. Over time, this substance is expelled from the whale and floats in the ocean, where it is highly sought-after due to its rarity and aroma.
The ethical concerns surrounding ambergris centre on the fact that it originates from sperm whales, a vulnerable species. While ambergris is typically collected from naturally regurgitated sources, the presence of a market for it may contribute to the endangerment of these whales by incentivizing illegal hunting. To address this issue, certified "flottè" ambergris confirms ethical sourcing from floating material rather than through harmful practices.
To ensure the ethical sourcing of ambergris, several measures are in place. Firstly, international and domestic laws regulate the trade, such as the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES). Secondly, brands are encouraged to provide traceability information regarding the origin, collection process, and ethical certification of their ambergris. This transparency fosters consumer trust and aligns with the growing demand for sustainable and ethical practices in the luxury fragrance market.
Additionally, some perfumers are turning to synthetic alternatives, such as Ambroxan, which is featured in popular fragrances like Dior's Sauvage and Paco Rabanne's Invictus. These synthetic options offer an ethical alternative that does not contribute to the potential endangerment of sperm whales.
In conclusion, while ambergris has a long history in perfumery, the industry is evolving to prioritize ethical sourcing. Through the use of certified "flottè" ambergris, transparency in sourcing practices, and the exploration of synthetic alternatives, the perfumery industry is striving to balance the use of this prized ingredient with the protection of sperm whales.
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Synthetic ambergris is used today
In addition to its rarity, natural ambergris is costly. In 2021, a 127-kilogram piece of ambergris was valued at US$1.5 million. Due to its inaccessibility and high price, synthetic ambergris has replaced natural ambergris in most perfumes.
Synthetic ambergris, or ambroxide, is now produced synthetically and used extensively in the perfume industry. It is important to note that the use of synthetic alternatives helps prevent the exploitation of whales for their ambergris. While some may argue that the olfactory qualities of synthetic ambergris cannot compare to those of its natural form, the use of synthetic alternatives is still encouraged to protect whale populations.
Today, animal protection laws have banned the use of most animal products in perfumery. However, natural ambergris is still allowed because it does not involve animal suffering. Natural ambergris is formed from a secretion in the bile duct of sperm whales and is passed like fecal matter. It is then expelled by the whale and floats on the sea's surface until it is harvested. This process does not harm the whale, and the animal is not killed to recover the ambergris.
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It is an aphrodisiac
Ambergris, a substance produced by sperm whales, has a long history of use in perfumery. Its scent is described as exquisite, with leathery, tobacco-like, woody, or camphorated facets, and it is known to enhance the longevity of perfumes by acting as a fixative. Beyond its functional role, ambergris has also been associated with aphrodisiac properties, a belief that can be traced back to its introduction to European nobility by Marco Polo.
The reputation of ambergris as an aphrodisiac is rooted in its unique qualities. Rare and exotic, it was considered a symbol of finesse, mystery, and eroticism. Its scent, which can range from earthy to musky to sweet, is believed to evoke sensuality and enhance attraction. This belief is supported by scientific studies, specifically one conducted by researchers at King Saud University in Saudi Arabia, where male rats dosed with ambrein, the main component of ambergris, exhibited increased sexual behaviour.
The use of ambergris as an aphrodisiac is not just limited to perfumes. Historical figures such as Casanova, Elizabeth I, and Charles I incorporated it into their lifestyles in various forms. Casanova, for instance, is said to have mixed ambergris into his chocolate cream, while Elizabeth I wore it around her neck in a pomander, and Charles I grated it into his food. These anecdotes further emphasise the perceived aphrodisiac qualities of ambergris.
In modern times, the use of animal products in perfumery has declined due to ethical concerns and changing preferences. However, ambergris remains an exception, as its collection does not involve harming or killing sperm whales. This distinction has allowed it to retain its place in the fragrance industry, including in perfumes marketed as aphrodisiacs.
While the scientific study on rats provides evidence for the aphrodisiac effects of ambergris, it is important to note that the effects on humans may vary. The belief in the aphrodisiac properties of ambergris is also influenced by its rarity, exotic nature, and historical associations with nobility and eroticism.
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Ambergris is a fixative
The use of ambergris as a fixative in perfumes dates back to ancient times. It was used by the Egyptians and certain African tribes. At the beginning of the 20th century, almost all perfumes contained animal notes, which were then called fixatives. It was also used to perfume gloves.
The reason why ambergris is a highly valued fixative in perfumery is its tenacity. Its scent is very strong and it resists evaporation much better than other raw materials, thus increasing the longevity of perfumes. It also has a subtle and pleasant fragrance, which develops over time. When freshly produced, ambergris has a marine, fecal odour. As it ages, it acquires a sweet, earthy scent, commonly likened to the fragrance of isopropyl alcohol without the chemical astringency.
However, due to the rarity and high cost of ambergris, as well as strict environmental protection laws, it is hardly used in modern perfumery. It has been mostly replaced by synthetic alternatives such as Ambroxan and Fixative BMV, which are less expensive and do not involve the use of animal products.
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It has a unique scent
Ambergris is a natural, animal raw material that is secreted by sperm whales. It is one of the most valuable raw materials in perfumery and has a unique scent. The scent of ambergris is described as woody, ambery, sweet-earthy, and musky-marine. It has similar scent qualities to sandalwood and tobacco.
The use of ambergris in perfumery dates back more than 1.75 million years. It is often referred to as "the treasure of the sea" or "floating gold". The scent is very strong and resists evaporation, making it an excellent base note in perfumes. Base notes evaporate slowly, allowing the perfume to last longer.
Today, ambergris is still used in some perfumes, although its use has become less common due to animal protection causes banning the use of most animal products in perfumery. However, ambergris is not considered an animal product and is therefore not banned.
Some perfume companies that are known to use ambergris in their fragrances include Creed, Roja, Sultan Pasha, and Areej Le Dore. When shopping for perfumes containing ambergris, it is important to distinguish between natural ambergris and its synthetic imitations, as the scent of synthetic ambergris may not be as true to the original scent.
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Frequently asked questions
Yes, ambergris is still used in perfumes. It is a natural, animal product secreted by sperm whales and is not banned under animal protection causes as its collection does not harm or kill the whale.
Ambergris has a woody, ambery, sweet-earthy, and musky-marine scent. It is often referred to as "the treasure of the sea" or "floating gold".
Many perfumes use ambergris, including fragrances by Creed, Roja, Sultan Pasha, Areej Le Dore, and House of Matriarch.
Ambergris is very rare and expensive because it is produced by sperm whales and floats to the surface where it can be harvested. It has a very strong scent that resists evaporation, making it an ideal fixative for perfumes.
