Katrina Rosales
Victorian ladies were not known for wearing excessive amounts of perfume, but fragrances were a part of their beauty regime. Queen Victoria, who preferred floral scents, considered anything too 'sexy' or excessive to be associated with 'fallen' women or those of questionable morals. Perfumes were generally delicate and floral, with popular scents including jasmine, lavender, roses, honeysuckle, and violet. Aromatic herbs like rosemary and thyme were also used, and lavender was so popular that it was used to scent everything from hair products to soaps.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Use of perfume | Perfumes were a part of a Victorian lady's beauty regime, but they were not known for wearing an excess of scent. |
| Type of perfume | Perfumes were generally simpler than modern perfumes and consisted of florals and other botanicals, such as rose, violet, bergamot, lemon, lavender, rosemary, and jasmine. |
| Application | Perfumes were rarely applied directly to the skin. Instead, they were used to scent handkerchiefs, gloves, and clothing or as a fragrant additive in cosmetic products. |
| Social status | Natural scents were considered appropriate, while overwhelming smells were associated with promiscuity. |
| Availability | Perfumes were available to a wide range of Victorian women, with about 40 perfumers working in London alone at the beginning of the Victorian era. |
| Complexity | Wealthy women demanded more complex and unique perfumes, leading to the development of high-fashion perfumes made of multiple extracts. |
| Advancements | The Victorian era saw advancements in perfumery, with the creation of breakthrough molecules and synthetic fragrances that captured elusive natural scents. |
| Advice | Advice on proper etiquette and the acceptable amount of scent to wear was offered in books and articles. Delicate fragrances were recommended over strong perfumes. |
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What You'll Learn
Queen Victoria's preferences
Queen Victoria was a devotee of the British perfume house Creed. She was also a customer of the renowned parfumeur Molinard, who founded his company in Grasse in 1849 to sell various eaux de fleurs, or flower water fragrances.
Queen Victoria wore a wreath of orange-flower-blossoms to wed Prince Albert in 1840, a symbol of betrothal and chastity. The couple had perfumes created as gifts for one another as a symbol of their mutual adoration. The Crown Perfumery created complementary perfumes for the royal couple. The Queen's particular scent was that of the orange blossom flower, which was of intense sentimental value as it was linked with her engagement and wedding.
In 1845, Queen Victoria visited Cologne. The streets had been sprinkled with eau-de-cologne in her honour. It had been created by the Italian-born perfumier Giovanni Maria Farina and was known as the Farina 1709 Eau de Cologne. The Queen also liked eau de Cologne.
In 1872, Queen Victoria granted The Crown Perfumery the use of the likeness of her crown on their bottles. The Crown Perfumery continued to gain devotees across the elite circles of London and Europe, and by 1879 was exporting half a million bottles of 49 different scents to 47 different countries.
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Floral and botanical scents
Victorian ladies were not known for wearing excessive fragrances, but perfumes were a part of their beauty regimen. These perfumes were generally simpler than those of today and consisted largely of floral and botanical scents.
Most fragrances in the early to mid-Victorian era were delicate and floral. They were understated and feminine, often conjuring up the scent of a particular flower, such as jasmine, lavender, roses, honeysuckle, and violets. Aromatic herbs might also be used, such as marjoram, thyme, rosemary, and the occasional sprinkling of spice, like cloves.
Violets were incredibly popular in Victorian times, not just in perfumes but also in toiletries, food, and as cut flowers. Queen Victoria was presented with a heady scent by Creed in 1845, 'Fleurs de Bulgarie', which she wore throughout her reign. It was a blend of Bulgarian rose, musk, ambergris, and bergamot.
By the 1890s, single-scent fragrances gave way to high-fashion perfumes made of eight to twelve different extracts, sold in decorative glass vials. Wealthy ladies demanded more complex perfumes to distinguish themselves from the lower classes, who now had access to inexpensive synthetic fragrances.
Bergamot and lemon oil became the most popular fragrances for women, surpassing Eau de Cologne, which was the predominant scent at the beginning of the Victorian era. Eau de Cologne was created from a base of neroli oil, derived from orange blossoms and bitter orange tree flowers. It was diluted with distilled water and sold as an inexpensive scent for both men and women.
Floral and botanical fragrances were also used to scent handkerchiefs, gloves, clothing, and cosmetic products like hair pomade and lip salve.
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Synthetic fragrances
The Victorian era marked a significant turning point in the history of perfume, with the birth of the modern perfume industry. This was due in large part to the advent of inexpensive synthetic fragrances, which made perfumes accessible to a wider range of Victorian women.
The development of synthetic fragrances also contributed to the growing demand for more complex and unique perfumes among wealthy women. By the 1890s, single-scent fragrances had given way to high-fashion perfumes made of "eight or twelve different extracts" and sold in "slim, beautifully decorative glass vials." These new synthetic perfumes allowed women to distance themselves from the perfumes used by the lower classes.
While synthetic fragrances played a significant role in the Victorian perfume industry, natural fragrances were still prominent as well. Most fragrances in early to mid-Victorian times were delicate and floral, consisting largely of flowers like jasmine, lavender, roses, and honeysuckle, as well as aromatic herbs like marjoram, thyme, and rosemary.
The use of perfume in Victorian times was also influenced by social norms and the association of excessive fragrance with 'fallen' women. As a result, perfumes were used sparingly and were often applied to handkerchiefs, gloves, and clothing rather than directly to the skin.
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Advice on how much scent to wear
Victorian ladies did wear perfume, but they were not known for wearing excessive amounts of scent. Queen Victoria herself was "not amused" by the over-lavish use of fragrance, which was associated with fallen" women of questionable morals. Instead, perfumes were a subtle part of a lady's beauty regime, often used to scent handkerchiefs, gloves, clothing, and cosmetic products like hair pomade or lip salve.
Victorian ladies were advised to wear only a hint of delicate fragrance. An 1880 edition of The Manners That Win stated: "It is in bad taste for a lady to use strong perfumes. A hint of a delicate perfume is quite enough."
But what qualified as a "hint of perfume"? Martha Louise Rayne's 1881 etiquette manual Gems of Deportment provides a detailed description:
> "A perfume should be so delicate, so daintily used, and so lingeringly fragrant that no one could define it as anything but the ghost of a sweet scent, a faint, clinging memory of sweetness."
Perfumes in the Victorian era were generally simpler than those we know today, consisting largely of floral and botanical notes such as rose, violet, bergamot, lemon, lavender, rosemary, and jasmine. These perfumes were rarely applied directly to the skin.
By the end of the 19th century, however, wealthy women began to demand more complex and unique perfumes, and single-scent fragrances gave way to fashionable perfumes made of "eight or twelve different extracts" sold in decorative glass vials.
It's worth noting that the concept of "too much perfume" was also a concern for Victorian gentlemen. An 1811 book of etiquette advised young gentlemen to avoid smelling "too sweet" or "offensive like a he-goat" and to strive for a subtle scent that wouldn't overpower others.
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Perfume application
While Victorian ladies did wear perfume, they were not known for wearing an excess of scent. These perfumes were generally simpler than those of today and consisted largely of florals and other botanicals, such as rose, violet, bergamot, lemon, and lavender. They were rarely applied directly to the skin. Instead, perfumes were used to scent handkerchiefs, gloves, and clothing, and even as a fragrant additive in cosmetic products.
Choosing a Perfume
Perfumes can be a powerful tool for expressing personal style and leaving lasting impressions. When choosing a fragrance, consider your tastes, personality, and the image you want to project. Think about whether you want a citrus, fruity, woody, or spicy fragrance. For example, if you’re a fun, bubbly person, you might consider wearing a fruitier fragrance. You should also consider the occasion or event you’re attending and whether the perfume you’re wearing complements the mood. For the day, opt for lighter, uplifting, and energizing scents, while for a night out, you may want to go with something that feels a little heavier and opulent.
Applying Perfume
The key to keeping your perfume pleasant but not overpowering is to diffuse it all over, rather than concentrating it in one area. You want the fragrance to complement and enhance your natural scent, not completely mask it. When applying perfume, hold the bottle about six inches from your skin and spray it onto the pulse points, which are areas where blood flows near the skin’s surface, such as the wrists, inner elbows, collarbone, behind the knees, and behind the earlobes. These warm spots on your body emit extra body heat, which helps to naturally diffuse the scent. You can also try the "spritz and step" method: spray your perfume in front of you, then walk right into it and back out. This will leave a light layer on your clothes. Applying a little perfume to your clothing or hair is a great way to keep your scent going all day, just make sure it’s not something that can stain, like silk.
Less is often more when it comes to perfume, so be sure not to go overboard with your application. A few spritzes should be enough to leave a lasting impression and a fragrant trail. If you have any cuts or abrasions on your skin, it’s best to avoid applying perfume to these areas as the alcohol in the fragrance can be irritating to broken skin. A hot and humid environment near radiators, windowsills, or in the bathroom can accelerate evaporation of your fragrance. Instead, it’s best to store your fragrance in the original packaging in a cool, dry, and dark environment to preserve its scent and longevity.
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Frequently asked questions
Yes, Victorian ladies wore perfumes, but they were advised to wear only a hint of delicate fragrance. These perfumes were generally simpler than the ones we know today and consisted largely of florals and other botanicals, such as rose, violet, bergamot, lemon, and lavender.
Natural scents were considered appropriate, while more overwhelming smells were associated with promiscuity. Queen Victoria considered floral scents to be the most appropriate for women to wear.
Perfumes were rarely applied directly to the skin. Instead, Victorian perfumes were used to scent handkerchiefs, gloves, and clothing, and even as a fragrant additive in cosmetic products like hair pomade or lip salve.
Eau de Cologne was a popular fragrance at the beginning of the Victorian era. By the end of the 19th century, single-scent fragrances gave way to high-fashion perfumes made of "eight or twelve different extracts" and sold in "slim, beautifully decorative glass vials." Popular scents included 'Mille Fleurs', 'Jockey Club', and 'New Mown Hay'.
