Exploring Fragrances In Feudal Japan: Did They Use Cologne?

The Japanese have a long history of celebrating scent, with the practice of mixing fragrances dating back to the Heian period in the 11th century. During this time, noblemen took pride in their ability to create unique blends, and fragrance played a significant role in the world's first novel, The Tale of Genji. While the Japanese have traditionally favoured heating scented woods to release fragrance, rather than oil-based perfumes, the art of scent appreciation, known as listening to scent, remains a revered practice in modern Japan. This ancient appreciation for fragrance begs the question: did cologne, or similar fragrances, exist in feudal Japan?

Fragrances in ancient Japan

The Japanese have a rich history of celebrating scent, particularly through the art of kōdō, or "the way of fragrance". This ancient practice involves the appreciation of scent through meditative and playful means, with a focus on mindfulness, philosophy, and aesthetics.

In ancient Japan, scent was first used for religious purposes, with records indicating that kōboku, aromatic wood mixed with herbs, was burned in temple rituals. Samurai also used kōboku for purification before battles. By the early 11th century, during the Heian period, incense had become an integral part of the noble classes' aesthetic experience. Lady Murasaki's "The Tale of Genji", the world's first novel, provides a glimpse into this world, depicting aristocrats engaged in incense-making contests as a form of entertainment and social competition.

The incense used during this period came in two main forms. Nerikō incense was crafted from up to 20 powdered ingredients, blended with honey, molasses, or plant nectar and shaped into small balls. Kōboku, on the other hand, consisted of sticks of aromatic wood imported from Southeast Asia, making it extremely expensive.

In the 16th century, during the late Muromachi period, the appreciation of incense evolved into a formal practice known as kōdō, with intellectual and aesthetic components. This art form inspired incense-comparing games such as genjikō, where participants tried to identify various scents. The Edo period saw the merchant class embrace these games, leading to the creation of ornate cabinets (dōgu-dana) to store incense and its accessories.

While ancient Japanese fragrances were often based on incense and aromatic woods, modern interpretations have led to the development of perfumes by Japanese brands such as Shiseido and Serge Lutens. Traditional Japanese fragrances were also applied differently, with incense used to scent clothing and hair rather than being worn directly on the skin.

The art of scent in Japan

The Japanese have a rich history of scent appreciation, with incense being a key element of this. The art of appreciating incense is known as kōdō, or "the way of fragrance". This practice involves the use of incense within a structure of codified conduct, including the tools and activities associated with it.

The earliest records of scent in Japan date back to the 6th century CE when Buddhism arrived during the Asuka period. Incense, known as kōboku, was used for religious purposes, burned in temple rituals, and to purify samurai before battle. By the early 11th century, during the Heian period, scent in the form of incense had become an aesthetic experience for the noble classes. The world's first novel, "The Tale of Genji", depicts aristocrats engaged in incense-making contests as a mode of entertainment and social competition.

During the late Muromachi period in the 16th century, the connoisseurship of incense evolved into a formal practice with intellectual and aesthetic components. This was also when the tea ceremony and ikebana style of flower arranging were being codified. The expanding merchant class of the Edo period further popularised incense through "incense-comparing" games, which drove demand for ornate cabinets to store incense and its accompanying utensils.

In modern Japan, the art of 'listening to scent' is considered a highly refined accomplishment, akin to wine-tasting in the West. Participants sit together, passing around a censer containing hot ashes and a tiny fragment of incense. They take turns inhaling the scent and trying to identify it, with the aim of letting the aroma infuse their body and soul.

The practice of kōdō involves heating a small piece of fragrant wood, such as aloeswood or sandalwood, on a mica plate, which is heated from below to release the aromatic oils and resin without creating smoke. This process is believed to have mental and physical health benefits, bringing calm and wisdom to those who engage in it.

Samurai and knights: differences

While the feudal systems of Europe and Japan shared many similarities, there were also significant differences in the values that governed political and economic relationships.

The Lord-Vassal Relationship

In Europe, a vassal swore an oath of fealty to his lord, which was a legally binding contract. In contrast, a samurai swore no such oath, and there was no legal contract. The bond between a samurai and his lord resembled a kinship, with the obedience of a samurai to his lord akin to that of a son to his father. While both relationships were steeped in duty and honour, they were rooted in different beliefs. In Europe, the bond between a lord and vassal entailed obligations on both sides, with the lord providing protection and land, and the vassal offering military and advisory aid. In Japan, a daimyo had no such obligations to his samurai, and gifting a vassal with land was done to reward loyal service rather than to secure it.

Land vs. Bond

Land was central to the lord-vassal relationship in Europe, but in Japan, the bond itself was paramount. A knight or noble owing fealty to multiple lords served them all, while a samurai served one lord exclusively.

Centralized Authority

Decentralization of power characterised the feudal system in Europe, with kings largely under the influence of the lords who ruled the lands in their name. In Japan, the shogun-emperor dynamic resulted in stronger centralised authority, with the exception of the Sengoku Age.

Peasants

In both societies, peasants formed the economic backbone, but there were differences in their status and freedom. In Europe, peasants were a borderline slave class, distinct from free tradesmen in the towns. Japanese peasants were divided into subclasses, with farmers at the top, followed by artisans and then merchants. Merchants, who were perceived as benefiting from the work of others, were considered the lowest form of the peasant class in Japan, whereas they often enjoyed a higher status than farmers in Europe. While Japanese peasant farmers may have had more freedom, class distinctions between peasants and samurai were rigidly enforced.

Honour

Samurai and knights were bound by codes that emphasised honour, loyalty, and protecting the weak, but differences in belief systems led to divergent interpretations of honour. For a knight, slaying a surrendered foe was dishonourable, while a samurai viewed surrender itself as dishonourable. A knight's life was dedicated to God, so suicide was considered a sin. Conversely, ritual suicide, or 'seppuku', was not only permitted but required in certain situations for a samurai. A defeated knight could hope for mercy or ransoming, but a samurai was expected to die rather than surrender.

Feudalism in Japan and Europe: differences

While cologne as we know it today did not exist in feudal Japan, scent certainly played an important role in the culture. The Japanese have long celebrated scent and its power to evoke memories and transport people to another place or time.

Centralization of Power

European feudalism was more centralized than its Japanese counterpart. In Europe, power was concentrated in the hands of a king, who presided over a hierarchy of nobles. In contrast, Japan's rugged terrain made it difficult for the emperor to exert full control over the local aristocracy, resulting in a more decentralized power structure.

Land Ownership

European feudalism was structured around a pyramid-shaped hierarchy, with the king at the top and nobles, knights, and serfs below. Knights received land from the lords in exchange for their military service. In contrast, Japanese samurai did not receive land; instead, they received an income based on the produce from their lord's land.

Legal Structures

The legal foundations of European and Japanese feudalism differed significantly. The European system was rooted in Roman and Germanic law, influenced by the Catholic Church. On the other hand, the Japanese system was based on Chinese Confucian law and Buddhism.

Time Periods

Feudalism in Europe flourished from approximately 800 to 1400, while Japan's feudal period lasted from 1192 to 1868. Japan's relative isolation during this period allowed its feudal system to develop without significant outside influence.

Loyalty and Revolution

European feudalism fostered a legalistic relationship between the nobility and citizens, based on Roman law. Loyalty to the nobility was conditional, depending on the nobility fulfilling their duties of protection and provision. In contrast, Japanese feudalism emphasized unconditional loyalty from citizens to the nobility, following the Chinese model, which left little room for revolt.

Inheritance Practices

European feudal systems typically followed primogeniture, with the firstborn son inheriting family land and titles. Japan adopted a more flexible approach, allowing families to choose the most suitable son as heir or even adopt an adult man if no suitable heir was available. Additionally, Japan recognized women's inheritance rights, with charters like the ama-shogun ensuring women could inherit equal shares alongside their male relatives.

Views on Women

European fairy tales and societal norms often portrayed women as delicate damsels in distress, reflecting the perception of women during the feudal period. In contrast, Japan had a different perspective, with female warriors, known as onna-bugeisha, fighting alongside male samurai. Japanese women were expected to be tough and willing to make sacrifices for the greater good of their community.

Treatment of Captives

When it came to captured or defeated warriors, the two systems differed greatly. European knights could await release by ransom, usually paid by the nobility. In contrast, Japanese samurai were expected to perform an honorable suicide ritual called seppuku upon capture to demonstrate their commitment to their nobility.

The power of scent

In feudal Japan, scent played a significant role in the culture and daily lives of the people. While the Japanese celebrated scent differently from Western cultures, it was an integral part of their society and held various meanings and purposes.

During the Heian period, which began in the 800s CE, young noblemen prided themselves on their skill in mixing scents. Scents were so important that they were used to identify people in the dark, as seen in the world's first novel, *The Tale of Genji*, where noblewomen were recognised by the unique fragrances they wore. This showcases the power of scent in evoking memories and transporting people to different places and times.

The Japanese perfected the art of heating woods to release their fragrance without producing smoke. Precious woods, such as aloeswood (agarwood) and sandalwood, were highly valued for their distinct aromas. The former, also known as kyara, is an ancient wood from Vietnam that takes thousands of years to develop and is considered more valuable than gold. Other materials used for scent included cinnamon bark, ginger lily, licorice, patchouli, star anise, and animal-derived fragrances.

People scented their clothing and hair with incense, and it was common to carry pieces of scented wood or rub powdered scents onto the skin. This practice was not limited to a specific gender, as both young men and women, including geisha and courtesans, participated in it.

In modern Japan, the art of 'listening to scent' has emerged as a sophisticated pastime, akin to wine-tasting in the West. It involves identifying different scents, usually incense, and is considered a fine art that takes years of study and practice to master.

The Japanese appreciation for scent extended beyond personal fragrance to the philosophical and spiritual realms. It was seen as more than just a sensory pleasure, but as a way to connect with nature and the world around them. This is evident in the care and attention given to the selection and preparation of scented woods, as well as the social rituals and ceremonies that evolved around the appreciation of scent.

In conclusion, scent held a unique power and significance in feudal Japan, influencing social interactions, cultural practices, and the way people connected with their environment. The Japanese approach to scent showcases a refined and nuanced understanding of the sense of smell, one that continues to be celebrated and explored in modern times.

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