Antonio Mcgowan
The use of animal glands in perfumery is a controversial topic, with some people advocating for ethical alternatives. Animal scent glands, found all over the body, produce pheromones that attract mates and mark territories. While humans have odor-producing glands, it is unclear if these glands produce pheromones. Pheromone perfumes, made from synthetic animal musk and chemicals, are designed to enhance sexual attraction. Civet scent glands, located near the anus of the civet cat, have been used in perfumery for centuries due to their unique fragrance. Other animal sources include beavers, musk deer, and sperm whales. Synthetic alternatives are available for those seeking sustainable and ethical options.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Use of human glands to create perfume | Unclear if human pheromones exist; limited research suggests that pheromone perfumes may increase the wearer's attraction to others |
| Use of animal glands to create perfume | Animal scent glands are used in perfumery to create unique fragrances; examples include civet, musk, and castoreum |
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Civet scent glands
Civet has been used in perfumery for centuries, with records of its trade dating back to the Ghana Empire, which carried it from the Niger Valley to North Africa, including Ancient Egypt. The chemical compound civetone, found in civet oil at a concentration of 2.5 to 3.4% is primarily responsible for its distinctive musky scent. Civetone was originally isolated from the glandular secretions of the African civet but is now typically produced synthetically from precursors found in palm oil.
In the past, civets were kept in captivity, and their scent glands were harvested for perfumery. This practice is considered unethical today, and synthetic civetone is preferred for creating the same olfactory effect in a more sustainable and cost-effective manner. The use of synthetic civetone also ensures ethical musky reconstructions and compliance with global fragrance and flavour safety standards.
The United States, for example, does not allow the importation of civets due to the risk of transmitting the SARS virus. However, the importation of treated civet oil that is non-infectious is permitted. Civet oil is still produced in African farms, where civets are caged for this purpose. African civets typically produce three to four grams of civet per week, and the secretion is prepared for perfumery through solvent extraction to yield a tincture, absolute, or resinoid.
While civet scent glands have been traditionally used in perfumery, the advancement of synthetic alternatives has led to a shift away from animal-derived sources. This transition addresses ethical concerns, sustainability, and cost while still allowing perfumers to evoke the desired olfactory effects.
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Human pheromones
The existence of human pheromones is a highly debated topic. Pheromones are chemical compounds that trigger a social reaction in the same species. Sex pheromones, for example, are produced to attract the opposite sex or to encourage mating. While it is clear that humans excrete many different chemicals, it is unclear whether these chemicals contain pheromones.
Humans have plenty of odor-producing glands in their armpits, nipples, and genital areas. One study from 2004 found that compounds like androstenone, which acts as a pheromone for pigs, are also present in human sweat and urine. Androstenone is also thought to be secreted only by men as an attractant for women and is believed to affect their moods positively. However, it is unclear whether humans can detect pheromones.
Some researchers have investigated the possibility of human pheromones. For example, a 2008 study looked at how the hormone androstadienone affects women's feelings of attraction. The study was a speed dating trial in which some women had androstadienone applied to their upper lips, while others had a non-hormone solution. The results showed that the women with androstadienone rated the men they met as more attractive. However, this study shows a different picture—in this case, pheromones made the wearer more attracted to others, rather than attracting others to them.
Another study from 1978 by Kirk-Smith found that people wearing surgical masks treated with androstenol rated photographs they were shown as "warmer" and "more friendly". Androstenol is believed to be the female pheromone. A 1971 study also proposed the existence of two types of pheromones involved in the menstrual cycle: one produced before ovulation that shortens the ovarian cycle, and the second produced at ovulation that lengthens the cycle. However, recent studies have called the validity of these results into question.
While it is apparent that odors and fragrances can alter mood states and arousal, there is little evidence that unique agents exist that specifically alter these states. The search for human pheromones gained popularity after Alex Comfort published his 1971 Nature paper entitled "Likelihood of Human Pheromones". However, attempts to identify mammalian pheromones have been largely unsuccessful.
In conclusion, while humans may possess pheromones, there is currently limited research supporting their existence. More studies are needed to understand if human pheromones exist and if they enhance attractiveness.
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Synthetic alternatives
While humans have plenty of odour-producing glands, it is unclear whether the odors contain pheromones. As such, synthetic alternatives are often used to create perfumes.
Synthetic musk compounds are used as a substitute for natural musk compounds extracted from animal glands. Synthetic musks are used in most products to reduce production costs and increase profit. Most animal musk compounds are macrocyclic ketones, meaning they are a single large carbon ring containing double-bonded oxygen. Nitro musks are benzene rings that contain multiple nitro (NO2) groups. Several common examples are musk xylene, musk ketone, and musk moskene. Polycyclic musks are several linked rings, usually with an oxygen molecule as part of one ring. Some examples are tonalide (AHTN), galaxolide (HHCB), and phantolide (AHMI). These compounds are found in many perfumes and scented products and are added as a base note to enhance the smell of other components.
Additionally, pheromone perfumes designed to enhance sexual attraction may contain synthetic versions of axillary steroids like androstenol and androstenone, which come from male sweat glands. These perfumes may also contain artificial versions of musk from animals like civet cats, beavers, pigs, and musk deer. While the effectiveness of these perfumes is debated, some studies suggest that they may increase the wearer's feelings of attraction towards others.
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Animal musk
Civet cats, for example, are captured in the wild and kept in tiny, cramped cages where they are subjected to frequent and painful "scrapings" of their anal glands to extract musk. The more stressed a civet cat is, the more musk it secretes, so they are intentionally kept in stressful conditions. This process is extremely inhumane, and many civets stop eating after the first extraction.
Musk deer are another primary source of animal musk. The musk pod is a gland in a pouch under the skin of the abdomen of male musk deer. Obtaining this musk requires killing the endangered animal through traps laid in the wild. The reddish-brown paste inside the pod dries and turns into a black granular material called "musk grain," which is then tinctured with alcohol to create a pleasant odor.
Other animals used for their musk include the musk duck, muskox, musk shrew, musk beetle, African civet, musk turtle, American alligator, and several others.
Due to ethical concerns and the endangerment of species, the use of natural animal musk in perfumery has declined, and synthetic musk is now used almost exclusively. Synthetic musk, sometimes called ""white musk,"" is designed to replicate the appeal of the original substance without using animal products. Plant-based musk is another alternative, derived from botanical roots and seeds that replicate the qualities of animal musk in a more sustainable way.
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Beaver glands
Castoreum has been used in perfumes for its note suggesting leather, and is typically compounded with other ingredients, including top, middle, and base notes. Some classic perfumes incorporating castoreum are Emeraude, Chanel Antaeus, and Shalimar. In the United States, the Food and Drug Administration lists castoreum extract as a generally recognised as safe (GRAS) food additive. Historically, compounds isolated from castoreum were used in strawberry and raspberry flavourings and vanilla substitutes.
Today, the use of animal notes in perfumery has been banned, and castoreum is reproduced synthetically. The scent of synthetic castoreum is not exactly the same as the natural product, but it is very close. The natural product is time-consuming to produce, as it has to be dried and aged for at least two years before it can be tinctured, and then the tincture itself has to age for several years before it can be used. This makes the natural product much more costly and limits its availability.
It is worth noting that beaver glands are not the only animal product that has been used in perfumery. Animal notes of natural origin that have been used include civet, musk, ambergris, and hyraceum.
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Frequently asked questions
People have plenty of odour-producing glands in their armpits, nipples, and genital areas. However, it is unclear whether those odours contain pheromones.
Pheromones are chemical compounds that can trigger sexual attraction.
It is unclear if humans have pheromones. While humans have the vomeronasal organ, which is used by many animals to pick up pheromones, it is unclear if we use it or give off any pheromones.
Some examples of pheromones in perfume include Epi-androsterone, Alpha-androstano, Androstadienone, and Androstenone.
Yes, pheromones for perfumes can also be sourced from animals. Civet scent glands, for example, are commonly used in perfumery due to their unique and exotic fragrance.
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