Anisha Riggs
Artist Ani Liu has developed a protocol to create human-scented perfumes. She does this by capturing volatile molecules from a person's garment in a solvent for several weeks and then distilling the solution through traditional glassware. Liu's work is part of the National Geographic project, Women of Impact, which focuses on women who are breaking barriers in their fields and inspiring their communities.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Perfumer | Ani Liu |
| Method | Capturing volatile molecules from a person's garment in a solvent for several weeks and then distilling the solution through traditional glassware |
| Tools | Emerging technologies, traditional glassware |
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What You'll Learn
- Artist Ani Liu has created human-scented perfumes using technology and science
- Perfumes are a blend of different levels of scent, also called notes
- Top notes are the initial scent and disappear quickly; examples include lemon and orange
- Middle notes appear after the top notes and form the core of the perfume, e.g. coriander and lavender
- Base notes are the foundation of the perfume and make the scent last longer; examples include vanilla and sandalwood
Artist Ani Liu has created human-scented perfumes using technology and science
Liu's work pulls from tools used in architecture, augmented reality, and synthetic biology, creating art that examines the social, cultural, and emotional effects of emerging technologies. One of her projects, "Human Perfume," captures the essence of her favorite people and turns them into a wearable fragrance that can evoke fond memories. She does this by capturing volatile molecules from a person's garment in a solvent for several weeks and then distilling the solution through traditional glassware. She has bottled about six people so far, including her husband, herself, her parents, a lab mate, and a chemist.
Liu's work is driven by the idea that smell is strongly connected with memory. She explains that bottling the scent of someone you love allows you to eternalize them and dive into fond memories of that person with just one whiff. This concept also led her to develop a protocol to make a plant that smells like her grandparents.
Liu's other projects include creating microbial self-portraits and eyesight-swapping goggles, further exploring the multi-sensory experiences that can be created through technology and science.
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Perfumes are a blend of different levels of scent, also called notes
Creating a perfume involves blending different scent levels, also known as notes. These notes are created with knowledge of the evaporation process and intended use of the perfume. The presence of one note may alter the perception of another. For instance, the presence of certain base or heart notes will alter the scent perceived when the top notes are strongest.
Perfumes are typically made up of three categories of notes: top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Each note plays a specific role in the fragrance's development and longevity. The carefully selected blend of ingredients forms the perfume accord, the basic character of a fragrance.
Top notes, also known as head notes, are the initial scents that you smell when you first spray or apply perfume. They are usually described as "fresh", "assertive", or "sharp". These notes consist of small, light molecules that evaporate quickly, typically lasting for about 10-15 minutes. Examples of top notes include citrus scents like lemon, orange, and bergamot, as well as light floral scents like lavender and rose.
Middle notes, also referred to as heart notes, are the scents that emerge just before the top notes dissipate. They form the "heart" or main body of a perfume and appear in the middle of the perfume's dispersion process. Middle notes typically last for about 2-3 hours. Examples include floral scents like rose, jasmine, and lavender, as well as spicy scents like cinnamon and nutmeg.
Base notes, also called soul notes, are the scents that you can smell once the middle notes have evaporated. They are the longest-lasting notes, providing depth and warmth to the perfume. Base notes are typically rich and heavy, and they can last for up to 24 hours. Examples of base notes include vanilla, sandalwood, patchouli, and musk.
When mixing your own perfume, it is recommended to add the base notes first, followed by the middle notes, and then the top notes. This ensures a harmonious blend of scents.
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Top notes are the initial scent and disappear quickly; examples include lemon and orange
Creating your own perfume can be a fun and rewarding experience, and it's interesting to learn about the different notes that make up a fragrance. Top notes are the initial scent you perceive when you first spray or apply perfume, and they disappear quickly, usually within 10 to 15 minutes. These notes are typically light and volatile, consisting of smaller molecules. Common top notes include citrus scents such as lemon, orange, grapefruit, lime, and bergamot, providing a burst of freshness and bitterness. Other top notes include light floral scents like lavender and rose, as well as basil, anise, and spearmint.
When creating your own perfume, it's important to consider not only the top notes but also the middle and base notes to achieve a well-rounded and harmonious fragrance. Middle notes, also known as heart notes, emerge after the top notes fade and form the heart or essence of the perfume. These notes include full-bodied floral oils like jasmine, rose, and lavender, as well as spicy scents such as cinnamon and nutmeg. Middle notes typically last for 2 to 3 hours.
Base notes are the foundation of the perfume and are usually added first when mixing your fragrance. These notes are rich, heavy, and long-lasting, sinking into your skin and lingering for up to 6 hours or more. Common base notes include vanilla, sandalwood, patchouli, cedarwood, and frankincense.
To make your own perfume, you can use a combination of essential oils, fragrance oils, and carrier oils like jojoba or sweet almond oil. You can also add vodka or everclear to your mixture. It's important to sterilize your bottles and protect your fragrance from light to ensure its longevity.
Understanding the different notes and their characteristics allows you to create unique and personalized fragrances that suit your preferences. You can experiment with different combinations of top, middle, and base notes to craft your signature scent.
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Middle notes appear after the top notes and form the core of the perfume, e.g. coriander and lavender
Middle notes, also known as heart notes, appear after the top notes in a perfume and form the core of the fragrance. They last longer than the top notes and give the scent its full-bodied character. Middle notes are often well-rounded and harmonious, providing a smooth transition from the top to the base notes.
Common middle notes include coriander, palmarosa, marjoram, basil, rosemary, rose geranium, petitgrain, and lavender. These scents are often herbal, floral, or spicy. For example, coriander is considered a "cold/long" spice, providing a gentle, cooling sensation with a prolonged aftertaste. Lavender is often described as herbal and elegant, while rose geranium adds a slightly spicy, green quality.
When creating a perfume, it is important to consider how the different notes interact and complement each other. The ratios of the notes are typically 2 parts base, 1 part heart or middle note, 1 part head or top note, and the rest is carrier oil. This ensures a multi-dimensional scent experience that evolves over time.
Middle notes are an essential part of the perfume-making process, as they help to enhance and balance the fragrance. They provide a bridge between the initial burst of the top notes and the lasting impression of the base notes. By understanding and carefully selecting the middle notes, perfumers can create unique and captivating fragrances that appeal to the senses.
While this answer focuses on the role of middle notes in perfume creation, it is worth noting that the process of making perfume involves a combination of art and science. Perfumers must select and blend ingredients, choosing from synthetic molecules and natural materials to create a desired scent profile.
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Base notes are the foundation of the perfume and make the scent last longer; examples include vanilla and sandalwood
Creating your own perfume can be a fun and rewarding experience, and it's certainly possible to use people's scents to inspire your creation. You can even use certain extracts to incorporate human pheromones, which can be an intriguing way to make your perfume unique.
Now, when it comes to base notes, these are essential to the structure of your perfume. They are the foundation of the scent, giving it depth, longevity, and a unique character. Base notes are the densest and most intense part of the olfactory pyramid, also known as the "signature notes" as they give the perfume its soul. These notes are long-lasting, remaining on the skin for six hours or more, and they are the ones you will remember the most.
When creating your perfume, it's important to add the base notes first, followed by the heart or middle notes, and finally the head or top notes. This order is crucial to achieving the desired effect. Base notes include rich, heavy, and long-lasting fragrances such as vanilla, amber, musk, patchouli, moss, and woody notes. Woody notes like sandalwood and cedarwood are particularly good for strengthening the scent's lifetime.
Vanilla, for example, is a classic base note that adds a sweet and warm touch to your perfume. It blends well with other notes and creates a long-lasting impression. Sandalwood, on the other hand, adds a smooth, creamy, and slightly woody aroma. It is a fixative, helping to extend the life of your perfume and making it ideal for use as a base note.
When mixing your base notes, you can start with a ratio of 2 parts base to 1 part heart and 1 part head. The remaining portion of your mixture will be the carrier oil, such as Jojoba or Sweet Almond Oil. This carrier oil will make up the majority of your perfume, so choose one that complements your chosen notes and suits your skin.
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Frequently asked questions
Human-scented perfume is a fragrance that captures the scent of a specific person. Artist Ani Liu has created human-scented perfumes using technology and science to develop multi-sensory experiences.
To create a human-scented perfume, you need to extract volatile molecules from garments a person has worn and fix them into a solvent. This process involves a lot of experimentation with different solvents, concentrations, and settings in the distillation process.
Perfumes typically use three types of scent notes: top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Top notes are initial scents that disappear quickly and include citrus fragrances like bergamot, lemon, and grapefruit. Middle notes form the core of the perfume and include scents like lavender, rosemary, and basil. Base notes are the foundation of the fragrance and include woody scents like cedarwood, sandalwood, and vetiver.
To make a perfume, you will need a clean glass container with a tight-fitting lid, preferably dark glass to protect the perfume from light. You will also need a carrier oil such as jojoba oil, almond oil, or grape seed oil, and your choice of essential oils or fragrance oils.
