Using Fragrance Oils In Lotion Bars: Safe Or Not?

Lotion bars are a decadent mix of butters, oils, waxes, and nourishing additives. They are a great way to protect and condition the skin from outside elements. When making lotion bars, you can add fragrance using both fragrance oils and essential oils. The typical usage rate for both is about 2% of the total lotion bar recipe, but it is recommended to double-check IFRA guidelines to ensure safety and compliance. It is important to note that only oil-soluble additives can be added to lotion bars, and water-based ingredients should be avoided as they will separate from the bar.

Lotion bar ingredients

Lotion bars are a decadent mix of butters, oils, waxes, and other nourishing additives. They are excellent moisturisers and are very simple to make. They are firm bars that can be rubbed onto the skin like lotion.

Ingredients

Wax

Wax is what solidifies lotion bars and keeps them solid in warm temperatures. Beeswax is the most commonly used wax, but you can experiment with other types of wax, especially if you want a vegan-friendly option. Here are some wax options:

• Beeswax: Beeswax provides a protective barrier on the skin, locking in moisture. It comes in yellow and white pastilles and has a melting point of about 144°-147°F.
• Candelilla Wax: A natural, non-animal-based wax derived from plants that grow in Mexico's North Central Plains and the Chihuahua Desert. It is a very hard wax with a melting point of about 155°-162°F.
• Carnauba Wax: Another natural, non-animal-based wax known as the "queen of waxes." It comes in the form of hard yellow flakes and has a melting point of about 180°–187°F.

Butters

Butters add protective barriers to the skin and help to increase the emolliency of lotion bars. Common options include:

• Shea Butter: Pure shea butter is high in vitamins and minerals, which are thought to benefit dry skin.
• Cocoa Butter: Pure cocoa butter is believed to reduce skin dryness and improve skin elasticity.
• Mango Butter: Mango butter is thought to have excellent moisturising properties and can counter the drying effects of bar soaps and cleansers.
• Tucuma Butter: Tucuma butter contains high levels of Lauric, Myristic, and Oleoic fatty acids, which are believed to moisturise the skin.

Base Oils

When choosing a base oil, opt for one with a long shelf life. Different oils will produce different results in lotion bars based on their properties. For example, lighter base oils will create a more absorbent lotion bar, while heavier oils will make a heavier lotion bar. Here are some options:

• Fractionated Coconut Oil
• Jojoba Oil
• Grape Seed Oil
• Rose Hip Seed Oil
• Olive Oil

Additives

You can add anything that is oil-soluble to your lotion bars, but avoid anything water-based as it will separate from the bar. Some common additives include:

• Fragrance: You can use both fragrance oils and essential oils to scent your lotion bars. The typical usage rate for both is about 2% of the total lotion bar recipe, but always double-check IFRA guidelines to ensure compliance.
• Smooth and Creamy Lotion Bar Additive: This additive helps create a smooth and creamy texture when using shea butter, as it can sometimes be grainy. The usage rate is 5%.
• Vitamin E: Vitamin E T-50 is an antioxidant that helps prevent oils from turning brown and rancid. The usage rate is 1%.
• Botanical Extract: This oil-soluble extract blend contains Calendula Flower Bud Extract, Aloe, Irish Moss, and Marshmallow. It adds rich attributes to your formulations, and the usage rate is 0.5-5%.
• Colorants: You can add colour to your lotion bars with oil-based colourants such as oil-locking mica.
• Tapioca Starch Powder: Tapioca Starch helps reduce the greasy feeling of lotion bars. When added to the melted base, it can be clumpy, so stir well. The usage rate is 1 teaspoon per 4 oz. (115 grams) of lotion bar base.

How to make a lotion bar

Lotion bars are a great way to nourish your skin, and they are easy to make at home. You can use a variety of ingredients to create lotion bars, but typically, they include a combination of wax, butter, oil, and fragrance. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to make your own lotion bars:

Ingredients:

• Wax: Beeswax is commonly used and provides a protective barrier on the skin. You can also use Candelilla Wax or Carnauba Wax for a vegan alternative.
• Butter: Cocoa Butter and Shea Butter are popular choices as they add protective barriers to the skin. You can also use Mango Butter or Tucuma Butter.
• Oil: Choose oils with a long shelf life. Lighter base oils like Fractionated Coconut Oil will result in a more absorbing lotion bar, while heavier oils will make a heavier bar. You can use Sweet Almond Oil, Jojoba Oil, or Avocado Oil.
• Fragrance: You can add fragrance using fragrance oils or essential oils. The typical usage rate is about 2% of the total lotion bar recipe, but you should double-check the guidelines to ensure safety.
• Additives: You can add various additives to your lotion bars, such as Vitamin E, botanical extracts, colorants, or flower petals for decoration.

Equipment:

• Heat-safe container: This can be a double boiler or a glass bowl set over a pot of boiling water.
• Scale: To weigh your ingredients accurately.
• Molds or tins: You can use individual cavity molds, metal tins, or silicone molds in various shapes, such as hearts, circles, or bars.

Method:

• Melt the Wax and Butter: Measure your chosen wax and butter using a scale and combine them in your heat-safe container. Melt them together using a microwave or a double boiler.
• Add the Liquid Oil and Additives: Once the wax and butter are melted, add your chosen liquid oil and any desired additives, such as Vitamin E or botanical extracts. Stir well to combine.
• Prepare the Molds: If you are using flower petals or other decorative elements, add them to your molds before pouring in the mixture. Lightly cover the petals with the mixture to help them stay in place.
• Pour the Mixture: Carefully pour the melted mixture into your prepared molds or tins. Fill the molds about three-quarters full to allow for expansion.
• Cool and Set: Let the molds cool and harden. This usually takes about 1-2 minutes, or until you see a light film forming on the surface. You can then place the molds in the freezer for about an hour to help them solidify completely.
• Unmold and Package: If you used cavity molds, gently remove the lotion bars from the molds and place them into metal tins or other containers. Your lotion bars are now ready to use!

Storage and Usage:

Lotion bars can be stored in airtight containers or tins and typically have a shelf life of up to one year. To use the lotion bar, simply rub it directly onto your skin. The warmth of your skin will melt the bar slightly, making it easy to apply and providing a nourishing and moisturising treatment.

Essential oils vs fragrance oils

Yes, you can use fragrance oils in lotion bars. In fact, fragrance oils are commonly used in scented soaps and creams.

When creating a scented product, like a lotion bar, you have the option of using either essential oils or fragrance oils. While both serve the same function of adding scent to a product, there are some key differences between the two.

Essential Oils:

• Natural Origin: Essential oils are derived from natural plant materials, including the seeds, flowers, leaves, roots, stems, or bark of plants. They are obtained through processes like distillation, expression, or mechanical cold pressing.
• Aromatic Profiles: Essential oils are known for their complex and unique aroma profiles.
• Volatility: Essential oils tend to be more volatile, meaning they may fade faster than fragrance oils.
• Therapeutic Benefits: Some essential oils are used in aromatherapy and are believed to have therapeutic benefits, such as assisting with headaches or providing natural support during pregnancy.
• Adverse Reactions: Essential oils can cause adverse reactions in some individuals, so it is recommended to perform patch tests and consult a healthcare professional if needed.
• Cost: Essential oils can be significantly more expensive than fragrance oils, especially when not purchased in bulk.
• Performance: Essential oils are not specifically formulated for use in candles or lotion bars, so their performance in these applications may vary.
• Variety: Essential oils offer a wide range of natural plant-derived scents but cannot replicate certain complex or unconventional scents like fresh-baked cookies or salty sea air.

Fragrance Oils:

• Synthetic Origin: Fragrance oils are manufactured in a lab and are designed to mimic natural scents. They are a combination of essential oils and synthetic aroma chemicals.
• Longevity: Fragrance oils can provide a longer-lasting scent compared to essential oils due to their synthetic composition.
• Concentration: Fragrance oils are often stronger and more concentrated than essential oils, resulting in a more intense fragrance.
• Ingredients: Fragrance oils may contain undisclosed and potentially harmful ingredients, so it is important to check the ingredients list and choose reputable brands.
• Cost-Effective: Fragrance oils are generally less expensive than essential oils, especially when purchased in bulk.
• Performance: Fragrance oils are formulated with specific purposes in mind, such as candle-making or cosmetics. They are designed to retain the integrity and strength of the aroma over time.
• Variety: Fragrance oils offer an extensive range of scent options, including unconventional scents that cannot be achieved with essential oils alone.

In summary, both essential oils and fragrance oils have their advantages and disadvantages. Essential oils offer natural scents and potential therapeutic benefits but may be more expensive and less stable in certain applications. On the other hand, fragrance oils provide longer-lasting and more intense fragrances at a lower cost but may contain undisclosed synthetic ingredients. Ultimately, the choice between the two depends on your specific needs, preferences, and the desired outcome of your product.

How much fragrance oil to use

The amount of fragrance oil to use in lotion bars depends on the desired strength of the scent and whether you are using other ingredients with strong scents, such as essential oils. The typical usage rate for fragrance oil in lotion bars is about 2% of the total recipe, but it is important to double-check IFRA guidelines to ensure you are using the correct amount.

Some people prefer a stronger scent and use more fragrance oil, while others find that a small amount goes a long way and prefer to use less to avoid an overpowering fragrance. For example, one person who made a 100g batch of lotion bars used 1% fragrance oil as recommended by the manufacturer, but found the scent "mind-numbingly strong".

The amount of fragrance oil you use may also depend on the other ingredients in your lotion bar. For instance, if you are using essential oils, the recommended amount is 6 drops per 1 oz of oil, which is a 1% dilution.

When adding fragrance oil to your lotion bar mixture, it is a good idea to add a small amount, stir well, and then test the scent before adding more. This will help you avoid adding too much and ending up with an overpowering fragrance.

Safety considerations

When using fragrance oils in lotion bars, there are several safety considerations to keep in mind. Firstly, it is important to follow the recommended usage rates for fragrance oils, which can typically range from 1% to 2% of the total lotion bar recipe. These recommendations can be found on the product page for each fragrance oil, in the IFRA (International Fragrance Association) Certificate, or through essential oil calculators. It is also important to note that the maximum usage rate listed on the IFRA certificate is not the suggested amount but rather the maximum safe usage level.

Before creating your lotion bars, it is crucial to calculate the amount of fragrance oil needed and ensure it falls within the safe usage guidelines. Additionally, when working with essential oils or fragrance oils with low flashpoints, be cautious when using them around sparks or open flames, as they can ignite at lower temperatures. The flashpoint temperature of a pure essential oil or fragrance oil, however, does not apply once it has been mixed into another product, such as a lotion bar.

To preserve the scent of your lotion bars, it is recommended to add the fragrance oil when the mixture is cool. Maintaining cool temperatures during manufacturing and storage, as well as storing the final product in enclosed containers, can help extend the life of the scent.

It is also important to be mindful of potential allergic reactions or sensitivities to fragrance oils. While some individuals may be more sensitive to certain fragrances, it is generally advisable to avoid using excessive amounts of fragrance oil to reduce the risk of adverse reactions.

Frequently asked questions