Anisha Riggs
The scent of perfume can vary depending on the environment, skin type, body chemistry, and even the type of paper it is sprayed on. When sampling fragrances, some people may find that they need to rest for about 15 minutes before the scent on the paper becomes similar to how it would smell on the skin. The unique smell of paper itself is something that people crave, and perfumers have attempted to recreate this scent in fragrances. The kinaesthetic feedback of holding paper and using our senses to connect with what we are reading may also play a role in our preference for the smell of paper.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| People's yearning to smell paper | True |
| Perfumes that evoke the smell of paper | Exist |
| Paper's scent | Dry and fatty |
| Paper | Consists of cellulose and small amounts of lignin |
| Paper | Has a comforting caress |
| Paper | Has a textural thrill |
| Paper | Has a tangibility |
| Fragrance on paper | May smell different from fragrance on skin |
| Fragrance on paper | May require resting for 15 minutes before smelling |
| Skin type | Affects how a perfume smells |
| Body chemistry and skin micro-flora | Affect how a perfume smells |
| Diet | Affects how a perfume smells |
| Hormones | Affect how a perfume smells |
| Temperature and humidity of the environment | Affect how a perfume smells |
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What You'll Learn
Why do people like the smell of paper?
The digitised world has made physical contact with paper increasingly rare, and perhaps this is why many people still yearn for the smell of paper. The scent of paper is comforting and familiar, and it can evoke memories and emotions.
The unique smell of paper is a result of the breakdown of its chemical compounds, including the glue, paper, and ink. As these components break down, they release volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that create a distinctive odour. The specific scent depends on how and where the paper was stored, as well as the individual who handled it.
The odour profile of a book or piece of paper can indicate its rate of decomposition. For instance, as cellulose in paper decomposes, it emits furfural, which most perceive as a sweet, almond-like fragrance. Lignin, found in the cell walls of trees and wood-based paper, releases benzaldehyde and vanillin, resulting in a faint vanilla aroma. The decomposition of paper can also produce toluene, which can smell sweet or pungent, and hexanal, which gives an earthy, musty scent.
The "old-book smell" is particularly beloved by many, and it has inspired candles, incense, fragrances, and perfumes that attempt to recreate this atmosphere. The Historic Paper Odour Wheel, developed by researchers, categorises the smell of old books into aroma categories, including smoky/burnt, earthy/musty/moldy, sweet/spicy, medicinal, and grassy/woody.
The scent of paper is not always pleasant, however. Pulp and paper mills, for example, can produce strong odours due to the release of gaseous sulfur compounds and other organic compounds. These odours can be unpleasant and, in some cases, even cause health issues such as eye and breathing irritation, nausea, headaches, and asthma attacks. Nonetheless, the smell of paper, especially in the form of beloved books, holds a special place in the hearts of many, and its unique aroma continues to be a source of comfort and nostalgia.
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How do you sample fragrances on paper?
Testing fragrances on paper is an important step in the process of buying a new perfume. It allows you to narrow down a few favourites before testing them on your skin.
Firstly, if you are testing multiple fragrances, keep the number of samples constant so that you can test the concentration accurately. Allow a few seconds for the alcohol to evaporate before bringing the strip to your nose. Avoid touching the paper to your nose; instead, sniff it lightly and set it aside. Bend the fragrant side upward so that it doesn't touch the surface. Enjoy the top notes and wait for the fragrance to develop into its heart and base notes.
It is recommended to take a break after smelling three fragrances, as nasal fatigue can set in. To avoid this, you can smell your own skin or clothes, or exhale into your elbow to clear your nose. It is also important not to wear your own fragrance or strong deodorant when sampling, as these can interfere with the test.
There are no special requirements for the type of paper used, except that it should be minimally processed and uncoated. Paper strips or blotters are typically white and made from absorbent, porous material that allows the fragrance to be absorbed quickly. These can usually be found in the perfumery sections of department stores, specialist shops, or airport duty-free areas.
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Why do fragrances smell bad on paper?
Fragrances can smell bad on paper because the scent of the perfume interacts with the paper's smell. Paper has a distinct odour, described as dry and fatty, which can be off-putting to some people. The combination of the perfume and paper scents may result in an unappealing fragrance. Perfumes are typically designed to blend with the natural scent of human skin, which has a different chemical composition than paper.
Additionally, skin type and body chemistry play a significant role in how a fragrance smells on a person. The pH balance of the skin, hormone fluctuations, and diet can all influence how a perfume smells on an individual. Oily skin, for example, tends to hold top notes longer but can also exaggerate certain elements, making sweet notes overwhelming. On the other hand, dry skin may require additional moisturization to allow the fragrance to last longer and smell more accurate.
The environment can also affect how a perfume smells on paper versus on the skin. The molecules in the air of a store, combined with the perfume, can create a different scent than the same perfume in a different environment, such as one's home.
Furthermore, individual perception of scents can vary. Some people may find certain fragrances repulsive, while others find them appealing due to differences in olfactory preferences and sensitivity.
It is worth noting that fragrances are designed to interact with human skin and body chemistry. Therefore, it is always recommended to test perfumes on the skin rather than solely on paper to get a more accurate representation of the scent.
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How does perfume smell different on paper and skin?
The smell of perfume can vary depending on whether it is on paper or skin due to several factors. Firstly, the composition of paper itself contributes to its distinct scent. Paper consists of cellulose and small amounts of lignin, a complex polymer of aromatic alcohols. The breakdown of these compounds over time produces the characteristic smell of paper. Perfumers have sought to evoke this scent in fragrances, such as perfumer Geza Schoen's limited edition "Paper Passion" fragrance, which aimed to recreate the dry and fatty aroma of printed paper.
On the other hand, when perfume is applied to skin, individual variations in skin type, pH levels, body temperature, and body chemistry can all influence how a fragrance smells. For instance, oily skin can amplify sweet notes in a perfume, making them more intense and long-lasting, while dry skin may require stronger fragrances with a solid base to prevent rapid evaporation. Environmental factors, such as humidity, temperature, and wind, can also impact how a perfume smells on the skin.
Additionally, the presence of certain synthetic molecules, such as Iso E Super, commonly found in skin scents, can create subtle differences in how a perfume smells on the skin compared to paper. Iso E Super has a soft, woody, and musky scent that tends to stay close to the skin, making it detectable only by the wearer or someone in close proximity. This quality gives skin scents an intimate and subtle character.
The act of spraying or applying perfume to paper versus skin can also contribute to the difference in scent perception. When testing perfumes, perfumers often experiment with different application methods such as spraying or rolling, to evaluate how the fragrance interacts with the medium and how it might evolve over time.
Lastly, the sense of smell itself is subjective and varies from person to person. Individual differences in olfactory sensitivity can lead to variations in how people perceive the same perfume on paper or skin. This subjectivity underscores the importance of perfumers testing their creations on multiple skin types and paper to ensure the final product appeals to a wide range of consumers.
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Why does perfume smell different in different environments?
The unique scent of a perfume is influenced by an interplay of factors, including individual body chemistry, skin type, and environmental conditions.
Perfumes are structured with three layers of notes: top, middle, and base. The volatility or evaporation rate of these notes is influenced by body temperature, with warmer skin causing faster evaporation. Consequently, the top notes may dissipate quickly, allowing the heart and base notes to emerge sooner. Conversely, cooler skin unfolds the scent more slowly, prolonging the fragrance. The pH levels and natural body odour of an individual, influenced by genetics, diet, and bacteria, also play a role in modifying the fragrance's character. For instance, a diet rich in garlic or spices can make the skin more acidic, altering the fragrance's perception.
Environmental factors, such as temperature and humidity, significantly impact the fragrance's performance. In hot and humid climates, the moisture in the air intensifies the fragrance molecules, making the scent stronger. On the other hand, cold and dry conditions accelerate the dissipation of the scent due to the lack of moisture. Additionally, factors like pollution, cigarette smoke, and indoor air conditioning can either enhance or dull the fragrance's notes.
Skin type, specifically its oiliness or dryness, also influences the perception of a perfume. Individuals with oily skin may find that the heart notes dominate, while those with dry skin might experience more pronounced base notes. This is because oily skin captures and holds fragrance molecules, prolonging the scent. Conversely, fragrances tend to evaporate more quickly from dry skin, requiring more frequent reapplication.
The interplay of these factors—body chemistry, skin type, and environment—creates a unique and personalised version of the fragrance for each wearer, contributing to the dynamic nature of the perfume's scent across different environments and individuals.
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Frequently asked questions
The material on which a fragrance is sprayed may affect the way it smells. Perfumes are designed to interact with the chemicals in the human body, which is why they may smell different on paper than on skin.
There are several factors that influence how perfume smells on different people, including skin type, body chemistry, diet, and hormones. For example, people with dry skin tend to smell perfumes more strongly than people with oily skin.
The temperature and humidity of the environment can affect how a perfume smells. For example, perfume will smell different in a hot, humid environment than in a cold, dry environment.
Fragrances need to rest for about 15 minutes on paper before they smell close to how they do on skin.
