Adding Fragrance Oils To Cp Soaps: A Safe Method?

Adding fragrance to soap is a fun part of the soap-making process. It's important to note that some fragrances may be added when mixing the oils, while others are added at the last minute, as they can speed up the process and cause the soap to seize. Some fragrance oils can cause the soap to thicken more quickly than usual, which can be mild or so extreme that the soap turns solid in the bowl, often referred to as soap on a stick. It is recommended to test your fragrance in a small amount of soap before proceeding with a larger batch. This way, if your soap does seize, you minimise waste. Adding fragrance oil to the fatty oils before adding lye is another option, as it dilutes the fragrance and can lessen the negative effects on your soap.

How much fragrance oil to use

When adding fragrance oil to CP soap, it's important to note that the amount of fragrance oil you use will depend on the specific fragrance you're working with, as well as your personal preference. Here are some detailed guidelines and tips on how much fragrance oil to use:

General Guidelines:

• For cold process soap, it is recommended to use 30g of fragrance oil for every kilogram of fats/oils in your recipe.
• For hot process soap, the suggestion is to use 15-20g of fragrance oil per kilogram of fats/oils.
• If you're making melt-and-pour soaps, consider adding 10g of fragrance oil for every kilogram of the soap base.
• For lotions, creams, balms, and similar products, a range of 1-3% by weight is typically suggested.

Tips for Usage:

• Before adding fragrance oil to a large batch, it is advisable to test the fragrance in a small amount of soap. This way, you can avoid wasting a significant batch if the soap seizes.
• If your fragrance oil is causing the soap to "seize," consider reducing the amount of fragrance oil in your recipe. Start with smaller test batches to find the right balance.
• Adding your fragrance oil to the fatty oils before introducing the lye can help dilute the fragrance and reduce its negative effects on the soap. This method is not suitable for essential oils as they are more delicate and may evaporate.
• To prevent your soap from accelerating too quickly, consider adding your fragrance oil to the fatty oils before adding the lye solution. This technique helps to dilute the fragrance and gives you more control over the process.
• When working with new fragrances, it is recommended to make a small test batch first to observe how the fragrance performs. This allows you to make any necessary adjustments to your recipe.
• Using recipes with a higher proportion of liquid oils at room temperature (soft oils) gives you more time to work with the soap.
• Opt for using the full amount of water suggested by the Lye Calculator instead of applying a water discount. This prevents acceleration.
• Lowering your temperatures to the range of 105-115°F can help prevent acceleration or overheating.
• To extend the time you have to work with the soap, mix the fragrance oil with an equal amount of liquid oil from your batch and microwave the mixture for about 20 seconds. Add this heated blend at the trace stage.
• For optimal results, add your colourants and additives first, and then incorporate the fragrance oil just before pouring the soap into the mould.

When to add fragrance oil

When adding fragrance oil to CP soap, there are several methods and techniques to consider. Firstly, it is recommended to test your fragrance oil in a small amount of soap before proceeding with a larger batch. This allows you to observe any potential negative reactions, such as soap seizing, and avoid wasting a significant amount of ingredients.

The addition of fragrance oil can be done at various stages of the soap-making process, depending on your preference and the behaviour of the specific fragrance oil. Some people choose to add fragrance oil to their fatty oils before adding lye, as this can help dilute the fragrance and provide more control over the process. This method is particularly useful for fragrance oils that are known to accelerate trace. By mixing the fragrance oil with the fatty oils first, you can prevent the soap from thickening too quickly or seizing.

However, others may opt to add fragrance oil at different stages, such as during emulsion or at trace. Some people do not follow a set time and add the fragrance oil based on the behaviour of the particular oil they are using. For instance, if a fragrance oil is known to accelerate quickly, it may be added to the oils before adding the lye to slow down the acceleration.

Additionally, it is important to note that the amount of fragrance oil used should be scaled appropriately to the size of the batch. Using too much fragrance oil in a small batch can lead to an overpowering scent and potential negative reactions. Therefore, it is recommended to start with a small amount and increase gradually as needed.

Furthermore, when working with fragrance oils, it is crucial to maintain temperatures at or below 38°C (100°F) when mixing the caustic soda solution with the fats/oils. This helps prevent the soap from accelerating or seizing.

In summary, when adding fragrance oil to CP soap, it is important to test in small batches first, add the fragrance oil at the appropriate stage depending on its behaviour, use the correct amount for your batch size, and maintain suitable temperatures to avoid acceleration or seizing.

Testing fragrance oil

Testing Procedure:

• Prepare a small batch of soap: It is recommended to start with a small batch of soap, such as 1 pound of oils or even smaller amounts in paper Dixie cups for individual fragrances. This way, you can test multiple fragrances without wasting too much soap if something goes wrong.
• Add the fragrance oil: Pour the soap into containers, add the desired amount of fragrance oil (typically a few milliliters), and stir with a spoon. Rinse the spoon between each fragrance.
• Observe and take notes: Pay attention to any changes in the soap, such as discoloration, acceleration of trace, heating up, loss of fragrance, ricing, or oil separating. Make quick notes on the behaviour of each fragrance.
• Test in larger batches: If a fragrance performs well in the small batch, try testing it in a larger batch, such as 4 pounds or more. This will help you observe how the fragrance behaves on a larger scale.
• Cure the soap: Allow the soap to cure for a few weeks and then check for scent strength, discoloration, and changes in the scent profile over time.

Tips for Testing:

• Always make a small test batch first: This is crucial to understanding how a fragrance will behave and to prevent wasting large batches of soap.
• Observe for signs of "seizing": Some fragrance oils can cause seizing, where the soap thickens quickly, turns solid in the bowl ("soap on a stick"), or starts to heat up. Test in small batches to catch this early.
• Scale back the fragrance oil: If the soap exhibits negative behaviour, try reducing the amount of fragrance oil in your recipe. Sometimes, using too much fragrance can overwhelm the batch.
• Add fragrance oil to fatty oils first: Adding the fragrance oil to your fatty oils before adding lye can help dilute the fragrance and reduce negative effects. This is not recommended for essential oils as they are more fragile and can evaporate.
• Control the temperature: Keep the temperatures around 105-115°F. Higher temperatures can cause acceleration or overheating.
• Use soft oils: Incorporate a large percentage of oils that are liquid at room temperature (soft oils) into your recipe. These give you more time to work before the soap sets.
• Use the full amount of water: Avoid using a water discount, as this can lead to acceleration.
• Heat the fragrance oil: Mix the fragrance oil with an equal amount of liquid oil from your batch and microwave it for about 20 seconds. Add this heated mixture at trace to give yourself more time to work before the soap sets.
• Add fragrance last: Once the soap reaches trace, use a whisk to mix in the fragrance at the last moment before pouring the soap into the mold.

Preventing fragrance oil from seizing

Adding fragrance oil to cold process (CP) soap can be tricky as some fragrance oils can cause the soap to ""seize" and turn solid. Here are some tips to prevent fragrance oil from seizing in CP soap:

Test in Small Batches

Before committing to a large batch, test your fragrance oil in a small amount of soap. This way, if your soap does seize, you won't waste a large batch. Start with a 1-pound test batch and adjust the amount of fragrance oil accordingly.

Scale Back the Fragrance Oil

Consider reducing the amount of fragrance oil in your recipe. Sometimes, using too much fragrance oil can overwhelm the batch and cause seizing. Try using a smaller amount and see if that helps prevent seizing.

Add Fragrance Oil to Fatty Oils First

Instead of adding the fragrance oil at the trace stage, try adding it to your fatty oils before adding the lye. This dilutes the fragrance and can lessen its negative effects on the soap. However, do not do this with essential oils, as they are more fragile and could evaporate.

Choose Different Fragrance Oils

Some fragrance oils are simply more prone to causing seizing than others. If a particular fragrance oil consistently gives you trouble, try switching to a different one that is known to be better behaved. Look for fragrance oils with similar scents that are specifically designed for soap making.

Adjust Your Soap-Making Process

There are a few adjustments you can make to your soap-making process to help prevent seizing:

• Use recipes with a large percentage of liquid oils at room temperature (soft oils). These give you more time to work.
• Use the full amount of water recommended by a lye calculator, instead of using a water discount. This helps prevent acceleration.
• Lower your temperatures to around 105-115°F (41-46°C). Higher temperatures can cause acceleration or overheating.
• Mix the fragrance oil with an equal amount of liquid oil from your batch and microwave it for about 20 seconds. Add this heated mixture at the trace stage. This gives you more time to work before the fragrance oil cools down.
• Once the soap reaches trace, use a whisk instead of a stick blender to mix in colourants, additives, and fragrances. A stick blender can cause the soap to thicken more quickly.

What to do if your fragrance oil seizes

If your fragrance oil seizes, don't panic! There are several things you can do to salvage your batch. Here are some tips on what to do if your fragrance oil seizes:

• Stop stick blending and switch to a whisk. If possible, add any colours and additives and continue with your planned design.
• If the soap is too thick, grab a spoon and try a layered or spoon plop design. These work well with thicker soap.
• You can also just spoon the soap into the mould as quickly as possible. Tap it on the counter frequently to get rid of bubbles.
• If it's too late to mould your soap, you can save the batch using a technique called "hot process hero". Wear safety gear and pour the soap into a stainless steel pot that is three times bigger than your batch. Put the pot on the stove and turn it to medium heat. Stir the mixture until it starts to liquefy, then spoon it into a heat-safe mould.
• If your soap has already hardened, you can rebatch it. This involves shredding the soap and adding a bit of water to the shreds before cooking.
• Another option is to "chunk" the soap. Let your soap sit until it solidifies, then cut it into little chunks. Make a new batch of soap and add the chunks to it. This can create unique designs.
• To prevent seizing in the future, pay attention to the temperature and water amount. Soap at cooler temperatures and don't discount your water. Always make a small test batch first when using a new fragrance or essential oil.
• If it is a light seize, stop stick blending and stir to trace by hand.
• Add your fragrance or essential oil to your melted oils before adding the lye solution. The dilution may help slow down the trace.
• Use recipes with a large percentage of oils that are liquid at room temperature (soft oils). They give you more time to work.
• Use the full amount of water recommended by the Lye Calculator instead of using a water discount. This prevents acceleration.
• Lower your temperatures to around 105-115°F. Higher temperatures can cause acceleration or overheating.
• Mix the fragrance oil with an equal amount of liquid oil from your batch and microwave it for about 20 seconds. Add the heated oil at trace.

Frequently asked questions