Hidden Ingredients: Fragrance Freedom Or False Advertising?

Fragrance-free and unscented are two terms that are often used interchangeably, but they have different meanings when it comes to cosmetics and skincare products. Unscented products are formulated to have no scent, but they may still contain fragrance ingredients to neutralize or mask the odours of other ingredients. On the other hand, fragrance-free products are free of any added fragrances to change the way a product smells, although they may still contain ingredients with a scent that are included for other purposes, such as essential oils for their skin conditioning properties. The lack of standardized definitions and regulations for these terms can lead to confusion among consumers, especially those with allergies or skin conditions, who need to be cautious about the ingredients in the products they use.

'Unscented' products can contain fragrance ingredients to neutralise or mask other ingredients' odours

The terms "unscented" and "fragrance-free" are not backed by legal definitions or FDA regulations, so it's up to the manufacturer to decide what they mean. This can be confusing for consumers, especially those with allergies or skin sensitivities.

Unscented products are formulated to have no smell but can contain ingredients that have a smell that has been neutralised by other components. These "masking fragrances" are used to counteract the unpleasant scents of other ingredients, bringing the product's scent back to a neutral state. According to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), if a fragrance additive is used as a masking agent and is present at an insignificant level, it may be considered an incidental ingredient and does not have to be declared on the label.

So, while an "unscented" product may not have a noticeable scent, it might still contain small amounts of fragrances used to mask other odors. This means that even products marketed as "unscented" may still contain fragrance ingredients, and these can sometimes be allergens or irritants.

A "fragrance-free" product, on the other hand, cannot contain any ingredients that have been added to impart a smell. However, it may still contain ingredients that have a scent but are included for a different purpose, such as rose oil, which is included for its moisturising properties. In this case, the product can still be labelled as "fragrance-free" even though the rose oil might give the product a faint smell.

It's important to note that even "fragrance-free" products may contain masking agents or other fragrance compounds. These can sometimes be allergens, cross-reactors, or botanicals that can potentially cause allergic reactions.

The lack of standardised definitions and regulations for "unscented" and "fragrance-free" products can make it challenging for consumers to make informed choices, especially those with allergies or skin sensitivities. Checking the ingredient list and performing a patch test can help individuals determine if a product is suitable for their needs.

'Fragrance-free' products can contain naturally fragrant ingredients, like essential oils

When a product is labelled as "fragrance-free", it does not necessarily mean that it is completely free of any fragrance. The terms "fragrance-free" and "unscented" are not legally defined by the FDA or backed by any FDA regulations, so manufacturers have the liberty to define these terms as they please. This means that some products labelled as "fragrance-free" may still contain fragrant ingredients, such as essential oils and other natural ingredients that have a naturally occurring aroma.

According to the American Academy of Dermatology, products labelled as "unscented" may contain fragrances to mask a strong odour in the formula. On the other hand, "fragrance-free" products may have no extra fragrances added to change their naturally occurring aroma, but they may still contain fragrant ingredients. These ingredients can be potentially irritating to the skin, but they are generally considered safe.

Some cosmetic companies use the term "fragrance-free" loosely. For example, a study found that 45% of the best-selling moisturizers labelled as "fragrance-free" from Amazon, Target, and Walmart contained fragrance chemicals. This discrepancy can be attributed to the lack of strong regulations for cosmetics like shampoos, lotions, and moisturisers, which are treated as cosmetics rather than medicines by the FDA.

Fragrance-free products that use natural ingredients and essential oils can still have a noticeable pleasant scent. For example, aloe vera has its own unique aroma, so products containing aloe vera can be fragrance-free as long as no extra fragrance chemicals have been added.

It is important to note that not all fragrance chemicals are harmful. High-quality fragrances, such as those found in some baby products, are free from potentially dangerous chemicals and are safe for infants' skin. However, some fragrance chemicals can cause discomfort, rashes, redness, dryness, and itchiness, especially for individuals with sensitive skin or eczema-prone skin.

There are no universal definitions for 'unscented' and 'fragrance-free' products

There are no universal definitions for "unscented" and "fragrance-free" products. While these terms may seem straightforward, they are not backed by legal definitions or FDA regulations, allowing manufacturers to define them as they see fit. This often leads to confusion and can be problematic for consumers, especially those with allergies or sensitivities.

An "unscented" product is typically formulated to have no smell, but it can still contain ingredients with a scent that has been neutralized by other components. For example, if a product is made with lavender, which has a distinct scent, a chemical may be added to mask the smell, allowing the product to be labelled as "unscented". This can be misleading, especially for those with allergies, as the allergen is still present even though the scent is masked.

On the other hand, a "fragrance-free" product cannot contain any ingredients added to impart a smell. However, it may still include ingredients with a natural scent, as long as they are not added for their fragrance. For instance, a cream containing scented oil as an emollient could be labelled "fragrance-free" as the oil is added for its moisturizing properties, not its scent.

The lack of clear definitions for these terms can be misleading for consumers. For example, a study found that 45% of moisturizers labelled "fragrance-free" from popular retailers still contained fragrance chemicals. This highlights the importance of understanding the ingredients in products and their potential effects, especially for those with allergies or sensitive skin.

To avoid potential irritants or allergens, consumers should be cautious when choosing unscented or fragrance-free products. Checking the labels for specific fragrance chemicals and being aware of any personal sensitivities are important steps to take. Additionally, giving the product a sniff can be a quick way to identify added fragrances.

'Fragrance-free' products may contain fragrant ingredients that aren't added for their scent

The terms "fragrance-free" and "unscented" are not backed by a legal definition or FDA regulation, so manufacturers decide what these terms mean. This means that a product labelled as "fragrance-free" may still contain fragrant ingredients.

According to the American Academy of Dermatology, some products labelled as "unscented" contain fragrance to mask a strong odour in the formula, rather than to create a scent. On the other hand, "fragrance-free" can mean that no extra fragrances were added to change the product's naturally occurring aroma, although fragrant (and potentially irritating) ingredients might be in the original formula.

Some brands stretch the definition even further. New Jersey-based cosmetic chemist Ni’Kita Wilson says:

> I’ve seen companies who said their products were fragrance-free, and then listed fragrance components like linalool, citronellol, and citral on the label separately.

However, some products labelled as "fragrance-free" truly contain no fragrance whatsoever.

To check if a product contains potentially irritating fragrances, you can:

• Give it a sniff. If it smells like strawberries, coconuts, or any other perfume-like scent, it likely contains fragrance.
• Check the label for sneaky fragrances. According to the European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, there are 26 fragrance chemicals to look out for. If the product is free of all 26, it’s less likely to contain irritating fragrances.

Fragrance chemicals can be harmful, causing skin irritation and respiratory issues

Fragrance is a broad term used to describe a hidden mix of thousands of untested and potentially harmful chemicals. The fragrance industry uses the term 'fragrance' as a loophole to avoid listing individual ingredients, keeping their formulas confidential. Natural fragrances typically contain aromatic compounds and musk, derived from various plant parts. However, synthetic fragrances are a different story, packed with a cocktail of synthetic chemicals.

Some of the most common fragrance chemicals detrimental to human health include:

• Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) like acetaldehydes, ethanol, acetone, limonene, beta-pinene, and alpha-pinene
• Parabens (e.g., methyl, propyl, butyl, and ethyl paraben) that act as preservatives in perfumes, shampoos, deodorants, and cosmetics but are also used as fungicides and bactericides
• Phthalates, the most common being diethyl phthalate (DEP) and dibutyl phthalate (DBP), which are chemicals used to make perfumes last longer
• Synthetic musks, which mimic natural hormones, disrupting normal endocrine and biological processes

These fragrance chemicals can enter the body through inhalation, skin absorption, and even ingestion, making their way into the bloodstream. Once inside the body, these toxic chemicals can cause a multitude of adverse effects, disrupting various systems and organs.

Neurological Effects

Fragrances can affect the central nervous system and brain, with some effects being immediate and others long-term. Inhalation exposure to potentially harmful ingredients is detected by receptors in the mouth, nose, and eyes, which are directly connected to the brain. Short-term effects can include headaches, dizziness, and migraines. Animal studies have linked fragrance products called p-cymene to weakness, headaches, and reduced neurological pathways in the brain. Synthetic musks like galaxolide and tonalide have been associated with brain cell degeneration, potentially increasing the risk of diseases like Parkinson's.

Respiratory Problems

As fragrance enters the airway through inhalation, individuals with asthma face heightened risks. Exposure to some fragrances can induce severe reactions, even at low concentrations. Fragrance chemicals in the respiratory tract can cause airway irritation, inflammation, coughing, and even difficulty breathing.

Reproductive System and Endocrine Disruption

There is increasing evidence that fragrance chemicals are endocrine disruptors, affecting the reproductive system and fertility. Synthetic fragrance musks can mimic natural hormones, disrupting the body's natural balance. Phthalates like DEP have been associated with abnormal male reproductive development in infant boys and sperm damage in adult men. High levels of musk ketone and musk xylene have been linked to gynecological issues like infertility and ovarian failure in women.

Carcinogens

Fragrance chemicals also harbor hidden carcinogens. Parabens, for example, have been strongly linked to breast cancer. Other chemicals found in scented products, such as formaldehyde, benzene, and styrene, have also been associated with an increased risk of cancer.

Allergies

Fragrance allergies impact up to 11% of the global population. Fragrance can sensitize the skin, meaning repeated exposure can lead to the development of a fragrance allergy. Cross-sensitization can also occur, where a person becomes allergic to a different substance after initial exposure. Once sensitized, avoiding the allergen is crucial, as further exposure can lead to worsened reactions and severe allergies like contact dermatitis, a skin condition causing swelling, itching, and redness.

Environmental Impact

Fragrance-containing products emit over 10 volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the air, affecting public health and the environment. VOCs are a significant source of air quality issues, and recent studies have shown that personal care and household products contribute substantially to VOC emissions that harm the atmosphere. These toxic chemical compounds are absorbed by the ocean, soil, and greenery, impacting wildlife and disrupting the food chain. Fragrance consumer products are often a primary source of indoor and outdoor air pollutants.

To minimize exposure to harmful fragrance chemicals, it is important to learn to read labels and spot safe cosmetic products. Opting for fragrance-free or non-toxic alternatives can benefit your health and the environment.

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